iggypop
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| posted on 28/8/07 at 08:06 PM |
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jb weld fuel tank repair
hi managed to put a tiny puncture in bottom of fuel tank this weekend (don't ask). as changing it is a real bugger has anyone used j-b weld or
similar on a long term basis.
??????  
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takumi
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| posted on 28/8/07 at 08:30 PM |
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I'm a huge JB weld fan, it's amazing stuff. I saved my Zetec-S block after stripping a small thread, cleaned the hole and coated a bolt
in JBweld, threaded it into what thread was left..let it set - I warmed the bolt slightly to aid it..
As good as new (..'ish)
Using it to seal a tank might be borderline.. I personally wouldn't.. I would either solder a small brass/copper patch over it (stamp size?)tin
both the tank hole area and the patch they should bond nicely under heat. Or use a silver solder and try to seal the hole with that..but Silver solder
requires more heat, but is stronger..
tak
RobinHood 2B 2.0i pinto, Keihin 38mm Carbs, lightened flywheel, O'Mori remote filter kit, 10 row oil cooler. Modified head, 10.2cr, special
valves FR22 cam, 4- 1 header.
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Chippy
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| posted on 28/8/07 at 10:39 PM |
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I have repaired a diesel tank with JB, and as far as I am aware that's still going strong. Main thing is the repair area has to be absolutely
clean with no trace of fuel on it, push it well into the hole so it forms a lump inside, then stick some tape over the outside so the JB doesn't
just run out again. I am pretty sure that once hard, (leave for a couple of day's), that petrol will not affect it. Not too happy with regards
soldering, flame and fuel love each other, Poooof no more tank,  HTH Ray
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iggypop
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| posted on 28/8/07 at 11:03 PM |
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yeah - i have a 80 watt iron but would feel nervous going near the fuel tank with that. i like the idea of pushing the jb inside the tank !!
we'll see
to replace the fuel tank would involve ... gear linkage, brake lines, rad pipes, handbrake cables, servo pipe, so you can see why i am reluctant to
change
[Edited on 28/8/07 by iggypop]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 08:58 AM |
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Iam also a self confessed JB addict.
Ive repaired a core plug with it before and also a tiny leak from a gearbox gasket.
Nothing to loose trying it on the tank. As above - must be VERY clean and roughen up the surface a touch. On vertical surfaces it will sag before
setting - however it can be pursuaded to stay put by applying gaffer tape or similar on top until it sets.
The worst that can happen is that it doesnt work and tank will need different repair. Its easy enough to remove with a file etc.
Your other option is to use petropatch. From memory its a 2 part epoxy repair stick, you cut off what you need, knead in your hands until mixed and
apply to the hole.
[Edited on 29/8/07 by DarrenW]
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craig1410
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:17 PM |
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Hi,
I've used Plastic Padding Leaxfix in the past to repair a dodgy tank on my old Rover Vitesse. It certainly did the trick for a few weeks until I
sourced a new tank. I expect it would have lasted a great deal longer too but the tank was like a tea-bag and needed replaced.
I've also used JB weld for other tasks but I don't know how good it is with petrol. The key things to remember are to rough up the
surrounding area to provide a good key and ensure that ALL petrol deposits are completely cleared from the site. I would use detergent and an old
toothbrush initially and then degrease thoroughly with celly thinners or Isopropyl Alcohol (brake cleaner). Also, when mixing the stuff, try to avoid
getting too much air into the paste. Mix thoroughly but squeeze the air out against your mixing board before use.
Cheers,
Craig.
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