quinnj3
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 06:51 PM |
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oxy is definately the way to go. The nut will come off remarkably easy. May be worth the investment or else take the car to a local engineering
place to get it loosened as previously said and drive it home.
my aim is to build my own locost wether it takes me a week or 10 years to get started, i'm sure i will sometime
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Benzine
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
if it accessible, then drill small holes into the nut to try to split it so it releases grip, then breaker bar - may work out the cheaper option.
I just got some drill bits from town. A 2mm metal drill went through it like butter! So I made 6 holes round it. I've been applying penetrating
spray over the last few days (how does that stuff work btw?)
I'll try the air impact gun in the morning (neighbours have a new baby so won't try now)
Can someone tell me more about oxy-acet? Is it used primarily for welding? Is there a "mini" setup I could get that isn't massive
and expensive?
thanks for all the help so far!
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mr henderson
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:14 PM |
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Have you tried stitch drilling a row of holes on one of the six faces (from front to back) and then whacking it with a cold chisel?
John
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car builder
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:14 PM |
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HI mate, where abouts are you? iam used to undoing tight bolts as i work for JCB? i have a big 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 400 foot pound snap on bolt
gun, iam in leicester if i can be any help,
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Benzine
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
Have you tried stitch drilling a row of holes on one of the six faces (from front to back) and then whacking it with a cold chisel?
not yet, I got a cold chisel set in town when I got the drill bits, will try it tomorrow morning 
quote:
Originally posted by car builder
HI mate, where abouts are you? iam used to undoing tight bolts as i work for JCB? i have a big 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 400 foot pound snap on bolt
gun, iam in leicester if i can be any help,
I'm in waltham (right near melton mowbray) With the breaker bar the access isn't that good as I can't get it parallel to the ground
to stand on it, only quite high (like 11 o'clock on a clock face) so an air gun would be best (loads of room for one) are you in the city?
[Edited on 2/9/08 by Benzine]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:21 PM |
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Starter motor is the normal trade way of doing it.
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Benzine
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Starter motor is the normal trade way of doing it.
I tried that, doesn't have enough oomph T_T
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car builder
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:29 PM |
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iam in narborough. i can pop out may be friday night or sunday night if u are still struggling.
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Benzine
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by car builder
iam in narborough. i can pop out may be friday night or sunday night if u are still struggling.
thanks that's very generous  I may be in touch then if I can't shift it in the next few days !
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car builder
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 07:52 PM |
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no problem, just let me know how u get on.
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mr henderson
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 08:35 PM |
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Is this a 960 engine? I'd be interested to know how the whole project goes because I have an M reg 960 estate 24V which might possibly end up
that way.
John
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Benzine
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 08:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
Is this a 960 engine? I'd be interested to know how the whole project goes because I have an M reg 960 estate 24V which might possibly end up
that way.
John
Yeah it's the very same!
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Michael
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 09:01 PM |
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Chock wheels, stick it in fourth with breaker and long pole.
Works wonders on the rear hub nuts on the old shape beetle.
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Benzine
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 09:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Michael
Chock wheels, stick it in fourth with breaker and long pole.
Works wonders on the rear hub nuts on the old shape beetle.
Good idea...
...although I have no propshaft yet 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 10:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Michael
Chock wheels, stick it in fourth with breaker and long pole.
Works wonders on the rear hub nuts on the old shape beetle.
Usually dosen't work on crankshaft nuts because of the springyness in the engine mounts and drive train.
Only way to hold an engine firmly enough is to remove the starter and lock the flywheel ring gear with a big tyre lever or proper locking tool.
However the starter method always works provided the power bar isn't jammed too tightly against the chassis ie has enough motion to make an
impact to shock the nut/bolt loose.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 10:02 PM |
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Just a thought --- has it got a locking tab ?
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Benzine
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 10:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Just a thought --- has it got a locking tab ?
No it hasn't
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
However the starter method always works provided the power bar isn't jammed too tightly against the chassis ie has enough motion to make an
impact to shock the nut/bolt loose.
ahh, I had it resting against the chassis to begin with. Is the idea to let it move before coming into contact with the chassis to give it a
'run up'?
[Edited on 2/9/08 by Benzine]
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02GF74
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 02:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
if it accessible, then drill small holes into the nut to try to split it so it releases grip, then breaker bar - may work out the cheaper option.
I just got some drill bits from town. A 2mm metal drill went through it like butter! So I made 6 holes round it. I've been applying penetrating
spray over the last few days (how does that stuff work btw?)
I am assuming you can only get to the nut from the front?
the idea is to drill a hole them enlarge it until it is just about to touch the thread - this should casue it to loosen its grip, or allow a cold
chisel in to to split it.
If you are keen, then drilling another hole opposite should split it- should be no need for more holes than that.
 
Rescued attachment nut.jpg
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NS Dev
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| posted on 5/9/08 at 02:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by martyn_16v
I've not found anything on a car I couldn't get off if I had enough room to get a 1m breaker bar on it 
Only one thing ever defeated me...and it was the crank pulley bolt on my Astra GTE (20XE). Broke two sockets and after buying a decent one I broke my
Britool breaker bar and never budged it.
Yep, the bolts in this thread are mere childs play compared to the XE crank bolt!!!!!!!!!!
"Hold the crank still" hmmmmmmmm
I locked it to the chassis in my autograss car with a 1m long bar welded to a machined ring bolted to the 6 front pulley bolts.................it bent
the chassis, and the bar.
It needed 350ftlb to undo it................
Forget oil, heat, chisels or any other crap, you need to holt the crank still with a proper tool, then borrow a BIG truck wheelnut gun, at least
3/4" drive, set it to max reverse torque, and that should crack it.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Benzine
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| posted on 7/9/08 at 05:48 PM |
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Here's the dirty little fecker!
A million thanks to car builder for coming over with his snap on electric impact wrench. What a bit of kit!
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