itsu-san
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 05:35 AM |
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Civic Based Midi
Hey Guys,
I've been lurking for the last month or so. I'm working through my design process and need some advice so i thought id post up my
progress.
Basically my goal is max performance per dollar. Im a student so my budget is low. Im treating this as a learning exercise trying to do it cheap but
cleaver. I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at canterbury university, hence the solidworks and fea modeling.
Bit about the car
honda d15b twin carb 105hp
Mx5 front uprights
5th element mountain bike shocks actuated by push-rods
these allow a 1.33 motion ratio and full compression and rebound adjustments.
more to come
Spacial mock up
Rear suspension and wheelbase
Fiberglass body
Rear suspension
Style inspiration Radical
[Edited on 8/4/10 by itsu-san]
[Edited on 8/4/10 by itsu-san]
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 06:12 AM |
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Me likee that very much.
Oh and welcome to the madhouse 
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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Ivan
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 06:45 AM |
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Love the body design - great for a one-off with no obvious compound curves yet still looks good.
Will watch this with interest.
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 07:48 AM |
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"posted on 8-4-10 at 05:35 "
You cant be a student........
Good luck with that. looks good, but why the smaller Civic engine when the Type R is so readily available?
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 08:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
"posted on 8-4-10 at 05:35 "
You cant be a student........
Good luck with that. looks good, but why the smaller Civic engine when the Type R is so readily available?
He's not been to sleep yet! Thats a sign on a true student 
Looks good. Running mountain bike shocks sounds a bit scary but what would I know 
Craig
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gingerprince
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 11:47 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
"posted on 8-4-10 at 05:35 "
You cant be a student........
My guess from his username (itsu-san) is that it's a Mr Itsu, from Japan, where the time is several hours ahead when Bargain Hunt has already
been on
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 11:50 AM |
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"I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at canterbury university"
My guess is you didnt read this bit!!
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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Richard Quinn
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 12:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
"I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at canterbury university"
My guess is you didnt read this bit!!
Or...
University of Canterbury
www.uco.canterbury.ac.nz
20 Kirkwood Avenue
Ilam 8041, New Zealand
(03) 366 7001
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gingerprince
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 12:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
"I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at canterbury university"
My guess is you didnt read this bit!!
You'd probably guess right
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eddie99
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 12:31 PM |
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Hahaha i love how off topic us locostbuilders manage to get!
EDIT: Love the car! look forward to hearing more about it!
[Edited on 8/4/10 by eddie99]
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 01:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Richard Quinn
quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
"I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at canterbury university"
My guess is you didnt read this bit!!
Or...
University of Canterbury
www.uco.canterbury.ac.nz
20 Kirkwood Avenue
Ilam 8041, New Zealand
(03) 366 7001
Fair point, but what was said was;
quote:
Originally posted by gingerprince
My guess from his username (itsu-san) is that it's a Mr Itsu, from Japan, where the time is several hours ahead when Bargain Hunt has already
been on
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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cheapracer
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 03:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by itsu-san
I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at canterbury university, hence the solidworks and fea modeling.
Rear suspension
[Edited on 8/4/10 by itsu-san]
Put your Mech Eng learnings aside for a moment and have a good look with your eyes at what the effects of the length of your toe links are going to
have on your uprights once in motion.
It's coming....
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itsu-san
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 10:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cheapracer
quote:
Originally posted by itsu-san
I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at canterbury university, hence the solidworks and fea modeling.
Rear suspension
[Edited on 8/4/10 by itsu-san]
Put your Mech Eng learnings aside for a moment and have a good look with your eyes at what the effects of the length of your toe links are going to
have on your uprights once in motion.
Mate those toe links are not dimensioned yet. But thanks, The reason i went with the smaller civic is i purchased the whole car running for $200nzd
compared with $3-4k that a type r would cost. Cheer to everyone for the comments. Im currently building my table so ill update soon
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Ratman
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| posted on 9/4/10 at 09:10 AM |
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That's a good choice of componentry. Why not just use the Honda upright for the rear suspension. Looks a bit naf, but saves a lot of work and
$$.
Here's a link in NZ for MX5 parts: MX5 Mart: http://www.mx5mart.co.nz . Ross, who is near Hamilton.
Here's another handy contact http://www.constructorscarclub.org.nz
How do you plan to organize a handbrake? Good luck with the build.
[Edited on 9/4/10 by Ratman]
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itsu-san
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| posted on 10/4/10 at 07:38 AM |
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I am using the honda upright for the rear! Its just not fully modeled yet because of the irregular cast shape is a pain. Thanks for the links.
Im not sure about the handbrake, any idea on how its been done before? separate caliper for the handbrake would work but it's a pretty
inefficient solution.
Does anyone have pictures of h22 gearbox's cable actuated shifter?
Grant
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Ratman
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| posted on 11/4/10 at 07:28 AM |
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You can get certified for road use in some situations with a hydraulic handbrake. You could discuss this with whoever you plan to use for certifying.
Other idea is to use a rear caliper from some other bigger car (troll pic-a-part). A friend is using MR2 rear suspension to simplify this issue. Early
model Subaru had front wheel handbrake.. but non ventilated. You can probably use a non ventilated disc OK as your car will be very light. These are
much lighter unsprung weight. Cheers, Brian
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itsu-san
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| posted on 12/4/10 at 06:45 AM |
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Ah this isn't going to be road legal in the short term so ill go down that route if/when i want to road register it. Thanks
for the suggestions.
Thanks
Grant
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itsu-san
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| posted on 16/4/10 at 05:00 AM |
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Finished build table. Geometric tolerance for the table is unacceptable for clamping the box section to it and welding on the table. So were going to
have to figure out the fabrication technique. Sat some junk on the table for fun.
My mx5 parts should be here tonight so i can start a scale mock up and then continue with my cad model.
Thanks
G
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Ivan
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| posted on 16/4/10 at 05:58 AM |
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If you didn't sit in the seat, hold the steering wheel and go "Vroom Vroom" then you will never finish the project - so do it now
Ps - build table looks very solid but a little low - would suggest a height of half way between your knee and hip.
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Ratman
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| posted on 16/4/10 at 08:29 AM |
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You'll be OK on that table. Make sure you put temporary triangulation members on to everything in EVERY direction as you go, and just tack the
joints until pretty much all the main tubes, engine mounts etc are in place. Don't let anything get off-square. Then take it off the table and
make a spit for it so you can hang it from the roof and spin it round for final welds. Then take the temporary triangulation members off.
If the table is a bit uneven, just shim it when you clamp (bolt or screw) the bottom rails down and get them true with a builder's level. Two or
three mm is good enough, just don't let the errors build up so you get more than this at the corners.
There's more than one way to skin a cat. But this procedure has served me well.
When you are working out your ride height, remember that the tyres squash down about 25mm at the bottom.
Fully locate all your pick-up points before you build the frame to them. Don't build a frame then fit pick-up points to it.
Check out the commonest racing rubber when deciding what overall tyre diameter you're designing for.
http://palmside.co.nz/tyres.asp?supplier=ALL&size=ALL&surface=ALL&type=ALL
I like these FTZ-RR tyres. And they're in your neighbourhood.
Cheers, Brian
[Edited on 16/4/10 by Ratman]
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itsu-san
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| posted on 16/4/10 at 09:16 AM |
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Thanks for your reply brian. Im thinking about using EX-NZV8
racing slicks, but those FTZ-RR's look nice! Once i get the front uprights ill model all the pick up points.
Cheers
G
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itsu-san
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| posted on 17/6/10 at 04:45 AM |
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almost finished exams. Much progress to come!
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vtecmike
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| posted on 13/7/10 at 06:58 PM |
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you should use the b16 lump!
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itsu-san
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| posted on 18/7/10 at 09:10 AM |
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[Edited on 18/7/10 by itsu-san]
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itsu-san
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| posted on 15/9/10 at 10:10 AM |
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Hi all,
I've been working steady on this project and finally things are starting to take shape. Construction has started on the chassis and its going
surprisingly well. Here's a rendering of the chassis and front suspension in their finial form. The rear sub frame and suspension still needs a
bit of work. Update tomorrow with pictures to prove this is actually getting built.
Thanks
Grant
Chassis
Front Suspension
Rear Suspension
Mock up : Please don't judge me on the body model it was only a QUICK model for motivational purposes
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