tegwin
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 09:45 PM |
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OT: Worktop Jig
I dont supose anyone here has a kitchen counter worktop router jig they want to sell/loan me?
There are a few on ebay from around £20... but if anyone has one sat about doing nothing... 
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nick205
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 09:59 PM |
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You'd be welcome to borrow mine, but not exactly local.
For reference, it's an MDF one I picked up for <£20 from my local Brandon Tool Hire depot at the same time as hiring a router for a morning
to do the job. I already had a router, but only 1/4" collet and 1200w - no where near up to worktop routing. Hired a man sized Hitachi
1/2" collet 2000w machine which easily coped with the 38mm laminate worktop.
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tegwin
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 10:17 PM |
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Hmm... my router is a 1/2" collet 1200W thing... I assumed it would cope........ Is it all cut in one pass? 
How did you find the jointing process? Painfull?
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dinosaurjuice
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 10:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
Hmm... my router is a 1/2" collet 1200W thing... I assumed it would cope........ Is it all cut in one pass?
How did you find the jointing process? Painfull?
no chance with 1200watts  it will cut so slow it will burn. the fewer passes made the better the join in my experience. mines 2100w and is OK. best
ive used was a 2300w something, out of my budget whatever it was.
dead easy to do, just spend the time setting things up and clamping the jig well. avoid tearing out where possible - sometimes means cutting joint
with worktop face down.
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 10:30 PM |
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You'll need a 1/2" router as anything smaller won't be stiff enough! 1200w will do the job but make sure you use a new and good
quality bit or the laminate will chip. It will take several passes, at least 4 with a 1200w machine. If you have not done one before, find some scrap
and have a practise, make sure you line up the panel butts underneath as well 'cause if they are out at all they will pull the joint out of
true!
Good luck, Si.
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tegwin
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 10:40 PM |
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I think luck is required! Will see how things go....
Will see if I can find a cheapy jig locally........ I guess its only got to survive 2-3 uses..
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scottfraser
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 11:56 PM |
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up in Watford & I've got a Screwfix version, one of these
LinkText
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 22/11/10 at 06:56 AM |
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I've got a dewalt one, but it weighs so much it'll cost £20 to send it, then send it back. Don't try to cut all in one go, do it in
3 or 4 passes.
Ben
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nick205
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| posted on 22/11/10 at 10:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
Hmm... my router is a 1/2" collet 1200W thing... I assumed it would cope........ Is it all cut in one pass?
How did you find the jointing process? Painfull?
The 2000W Hitatchi one I hired did it easily in 2 passes - too many passes and you increase the risk of chipping the laminate or misalignment between
passes.
As mentioned, provided you take care in setting up the router and jig carefully, it's actually quite easy and rewarding to do. One tip
I've since learnt from a professional joiner is to combine a biscuit joint into the assembly to guarantee a level flush fit between the sections
- nice if you have a biscuit jointer, but certainly not essential.
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 22/11/10 at 11:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
Hmm... my router is a 1/2" collet 1200W thing... I assumed it would cope........ Is it all cut in one pass?
How did you find the jointing process? Painfull?
The 2000W Hitatchi one I hired did it easily in 2 passes - too many passes and you increase the risk of chipping the laminate or misalignment between
passes.
As mentioned, provided you take care in setting up the router and jig carefully, it's actually quite easy and rewarding to do. One tip
I've since learnt from a professional joiner is to combine a biscuit joint into the assembly to guarantee a level flush fit between the sections
- nice if you have a biscuit jointer, but certainly not essential.
Sorry but I wouldn't use biscuits unless you have to to, for instance if the top is not supported at the join. Biscuits tend to swell (as they
are supposed to) and push the joint out of alignment. We stopped using biscuits years ago as we can get a better joint without them. Three panel butts
(the bolts under the work surface) should be enough especially if the joint is near or on a point of support. I have done quite a few of these over
the years as I build barn conversions in my other life! Or at least I used to! We also now use a polyurethane expanding glue to get a waterproof joint
that won't blow the first time the kettle gets spilt onto it! This can be messy unless you now how to use it though, so again, practise on a
piece of scrap first. You can easily find off cuts of work tops in most builders skips. If I was local I'd give you some to play with.
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tegwin
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| posted on 22/11/10 at 11:25 AM |
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Strontium.... you are local to me.. I am currently residing in Plymouth :-)
I had to order 3 x3m lenghths of work surface, plus a breakfast bar, so I should have about 2 meters spare to practice multiple joints on...
What cutters are recommended? Just a straight slot cutter?
[Edited on 22/11/10 by tegwin]
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 22/11/10 at 05:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
Strontium.... you are local to me.. I am currently residing in Plymouth :-)
I had to order 3 x3m lenghths of work surface, plus a breakfast bar, so I should have about 2 meters spare to practice multiple joints on...
What cutters are recommended? Just a straight slot cutter?
[Edited on 22/11/10 by tegwin]
Then I have a jig you can borrow! It copes with offsets too so if your walls are out you can compensate with the jig settings. I even have the
distructions laminated and with it! As to cutter you need a 12.7mm cutter as good as you can get and a 30mm guide bush, although you can borrow my
bush too (ooh er!) if you want.
I still have some old work surface you can have a go on but it might be wet as I chucked it out the other day. I'll PM you my no.
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