belgian2b
|
| posted on 29/5/20 at 10:26 AM |
|
|
Duratec conversion
Hello,
i have decided to sell my Pinto engine in the Westield SEW.
So, i am looking for a Duratec engine and other parts for the Pinto to Duratec swap.
I have a KMS ECU with loom.
I am not looking for high power engine. 150 to 170 hp is enough
Let me know what you have in stock.
Gerardo
PS: is there someone that could pass my request on WSCC ?
|
|
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 29/5/20 at 05:00 PM |
|
|
Standard Duretc from a Fiesta ST150 Is 147bhp, add some throttle bodies and you’ll see 170+ with ease
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
wowblaauw
|
| posted on 30/5/20 at 01:56 PM |
|
|
Hi have a spare Duratec with a spare head if required.
Let me know and I'll send images.
Cheers
Craig
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming...
Damn, What a ride!!"
|
|
|
wowblaauw
|
| posted on 30/5/20 at 01:56 PM |
|
|
Hi have a spare Duratec with a spare head if required.
Let me know and I'll send images.
Cheers
Craig
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming...
Damn, What a ride!!"
|
|
|
belgian2b
|
| posted on 12/7/20 at 08:13 PM |
|
|
So, conversion has started.
Pinto is sold and delivered to new owner.
I received the duratec, stripped it and cleaned it.
Parts are ordered for the bellhousing ( should be delivred this week)
Sump ( from Flak Monkey) should be welded this week.
ZX12 throttle bodies are being re-espaced to fit the duratec inlet.
Only major problem is the gearbox.
Those last weeks, it started to make some noise.
The noise was strnger under load, but it was growing.
So i opened the gearbox to give a look and here is what i found :
there is some kind of washer or maybe a spring where it shouldn't
 
Gearbox 2
So, i started dissassembling the gearbox.
this is the first time i open a gearbox.
I hope i'll be able to fix and rebuild it...
Gerardo
|
|
|
Pete Jordan
|
| posted on 13/7/20 at 01:09 PM |
|
|
Hi Gerardo,
Is your gearbox a type 9? If so, the thread I started on the rebuild http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=187055 of my type 9
might be of interest to you. I stripped and rebuilt the gearbox and converted it to have a better 1st ratio gear and heavy duty bearings, which may be
a good idea if you are planning on putting 170bhp through it. There is also a series of photos in my photo archive showing the strip down and
rebuild.
Regards
Pete
Pete Jordan
|
|
|
belgian2b
|
| posted on 13/7/20 at 05:35 PM |
|
|
thanks Pete !
Gerardo
|
|
|
belgian2b
|
| posted on 14/7/20 at 08:50 PM |
|
|
So,
i finished disassembling the gearbox today
 
BV open
Only problem i found is what i found when taking the cover out :
there was a ring that is not supposed to be there
 
BV ring
Gearbox 2
i double checked but everything is on the right place, every thing seems fine.
the noise i was hearing is a part of that ring that felt down the gearbox and was stuck on the magnet but touching the gears
What could this be ?
Gerardo
|
|
|
Pete Jordan
|
| posted on 14/7/20 at 11:11 PM |
|
|
Hi Gerado,
Its difficult to tell from the photos and not knowing exactly where the ring has come from but I think it is a bearing snap ring. There is one on the
input shaft bearing and possibly one on the rear main shaft bearing, that's the bearing in the intermediate housing. I say possibly because some
diagrams show it as a circlip. If it is one of those snap rings, it means the bearing is not secured in position.
A few things you should consider while the gearbox is apart:
1. Make sure you inspect the synchro rings (the brass ones) to see if are worn or have bits snapped off. If they are worn or damaged, replace them.
2. While the gearbox is apart, replace all the bearings and consider getting a heavy duty conversion that has stronger layshaft bearings. You could
also convert the gearbox to have a better 1st gear but this is quite expensive.
3. I don't know if it is just the light but in your photo of the gears, the teeth look to be pitted. If so, theymay be weakened and may fail
when you put a lot more power through the gearbox.
Pete
Pete Jordan
|
|
|
belgian2b
|
| posted on 15/7/20 at 12:06 PM |
|
|
Hello Pete,
as i said , i did check all the parts but i can't find where this ring is coming from.
Bearings are in very good condition as the synchro ( they have been changed 3 or 4 years ago).
This ring was on the 3rd gear, on the line where the oil comes to lubricate.
So, i have planed to change the layshaft and go for longer needles, change all the clips and gasket.
Gerardo
|
|
|
Pete Jordan
|
| posted on 15/7/20 at 09:29 PM |
|
|
Hi Gerado,
I zoomed into your picture of the open gearbox and was finally able to see the ring, which I think is next to 2nd gear rather than 3rd. It does not
look like any part of the gearbox! Looking at the picture of the ring, it looks quite rough on the outside, presumably either because it has broken
off some part of the gearbox or it was getting chewed up by the gears.
The only thing I can suggest is re-check every part, including the bearings and their retaining rings/circlips to make sure nothing has snapped off
them, and most certainly do not put that ring back in when you rebuild it!
Glad the synchro rings/bearing are all good and agree that better layshaft bearings are a good idea. Still a bit concerned by what looks like
pitting/rust of the gear teeth though.
Good luck,
Pete
Pete Jordan
|
|
|
belgian2b
|
| posted on 14/12/20 at 08:55 PM |
|
|
Hello,
yesterday was a good day.
After weeks doing nothing else but working ( Covid )
Finally had an afternoon to fit the Duratec in the Westfield.
the type 9 gearbox was already in place.
the clutch is cable operated.
it went pretty easily in and i spent the rest of the afternoon drilling for the engine supports, mounting the alternator , starter etc....
So , today, i took an hour to cut the body to allow space for the exhaust ( exhaust exits 5 cm more to the front than the pinto one).
Time to connect the clutch cable.
And then i noticed a problem.
Event pushed at the maximum, the release bearing does not touch the flywheel 
Flywheel is the St 150 original with original pressure plate.
I have a RWD bellhousing with RS2000 release fork and RS2000 release bearing.
as instructed by RWD, i moved the clutch fork pin forward 6 mm .
So , what have i done wrong
Next week-end will be taking engine out 
Gerardo
|
|
|
