David Jenkins
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 02:27 PM |
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And another thing - Ford crossflow breather elbow for the inlet manifold
I now have a x-flow crankcase breather thingy - now I'm looking for the 90-degree connector for the Weber DGV inlet manifold.
Anyone have one they don't want, or know what it's called, and who would sell it?
Thanks.
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joneh
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 04:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I now have a x-flow crankcase breather thingy - now I'm looking for the 90-degree connector for the Weber DGV inlet manifold.
Anyone have one they don't want, or know what it's called, and who would sell it?
Thanks.
Got a picture? I've got the remains of a xflow here, less block, the breather thingy and inlet manifold and carb. Might have any other bits you
need.
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MikeR
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 04:57 PM |
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Burton do them, the straight and 90 degree are quite cheap. You can also get them from anywhere (once I can remember the size). The 135 degree
connector is stupid price.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 06:23 PM |
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I tried a search on Burton's website, but I failed due to not knowing the correct name...
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MikeR
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 06:37 PM |
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I found the expensive 135 degree which is out of stock but .... It tells you the fitting, so you can look elsewhere for straight or 90 as I
can't find them on the site
https://www.burtonpower.com/vacuum-union-1-4npt-135-deg-elbow-fp472.html
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steve m
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 07:14 PM |
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David,
I made my breather connections using 15mm copper pipe fittings, when i was running the twin 40's
but discarded all of it, and just vented into a bottle, from the cam cover, and pop off valve
I never reconnected it when i went back to the 28/36 Dcd fire starter carb
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 08:33 PM |
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Here's the puppy, found for me by Joneh:
ebay
But there is NO WAY that I'm going to pay that money for it!
As I now know what they're called, I found that Burtons have this
union that appears to be the right thing.
I'll check sizes tomorrow.
[Edited on 12/9/20 by David Jenkins]
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MikeR
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| posted on 12/9/20 at 09:14 PM |
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Sorry. I thought you were after the vacuum not water. Again, I'd but it from a hose supplier of Burton don't have it. I've got a
spare in the garage. I can look who supplied it if you need a supplier name.
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steve m
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 07:11 AM |
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Its the same thread as a brass plumbing thread, and thats what i used, with a crimp and nut with a piece of 15mm pipe,
then normal heating hose to the top of the water pump,
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 10:11 AM |
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David, I might have a straight one if that’s any help? I’m away for a couple of weeks though.
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MikeR
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| posted on 15/9/20 at 09:06 AM |
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Found the burton ones for reference,
p45 of the 2020 catalogue.
FP477 straight 3/8 NPT (billet machined) £9.95
FP478 90 degree elbow 3/8 NPT £7.90
FP479 135 degree elbow 3/8 NPT £51.60 (no thats not a typo)
Also Vaccum take off
FSECFTU10 Straight 1/4 BSPF £3.25
All prices include VAT at 20%
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 15/9/20 at 12:56 PM |
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Thanks MikeR - but I had found those (see my previous post).
...but the kind thought is appreciated! 
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/9/20 at 12:39 PM |
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...and, I was wrong!
It is 1/4NPT - I finally took the current blanking plug out and measured it. I found a useful guide on a website that gave both the actual dimensions
and offered a quick hint: the actual diameter of most NPT threads is roughly the nominal diameter (1/4 in this case) plus 1/4. The plug is a fraction
over 12.5mm or 1/2 inch, so it's 1/4 NPT.
I found a tidy 90-degree union in the Burton Power website, so I ordered one of them.
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MikeR
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| posted on 23/9/20 at 12:55 PM |
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So when do we get to see what you've been doing?
And is this in a ford manifold or a Weber manifold or something else?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/9/20 at 02:12 PM |
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I like being mysterious...
I kept it quiet because I know that some people would criticise, or keep recommending that I do something else (like a pair of twin webers). I know
what I want, and I intend to do it. 
All I'm doing is putting a Weber 32/36DVG carb back on my x-flow engine - the bike carbs are fine, but the intake roar is formidable when
accelerating, and I can watch the fuel gauge drop while I'm doing it. I just want something that's easy to drive - something tame,
really. Also, the cost of getting 4 bike carbs tuned is quite high (well over £200, maybe as much £300) from my local reputable rolling road, mostly
due to the hours involved in stripping each carb down, rebuilding, testing, round and round until done.
Originally I had a Weber on my car when I first drove it, but that was a knackered old thing - even so, it was more than lively enough. I fitted the
bike carbs because of the need to replace the tired old weber, and enjoyed doing that conversion. I've already had the current (new) Weber on
the car before now and had it tuned, but unfortunately the tuner was on the arrogant side and tuned the engine for the track, rather than the road.
This made it a bit of a PITA at low revs. At least tuning the weber again is a much simpler (and cheaper) process. This carb also works very well on
a lightly-tuned x-flow.
I've got everything set up with connectors etc. so that I can swap the carbs in less than an hour, including all the controls and fuel feeds.
I also want to replace the oil catch tank that I installed because of the bike carbs with a PCV valve that feeds into the manifold, as in the original
installation. Nowhere near an ideal setup for power, but very, very simple. My current catch tank never worked very well anyway...
I plan to hang on to the bike carbs for a while as I might change my mind again!
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Deckman001
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| posted on 23/9/20 at 02:23 PM |
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Hi David,
I have used Suzuki GSXR 600SRAD carbs on mine, and they run very well now. The set up is std and even though they allow a slight pop and bang while
warming up they run very well and allow the engine to rev like a bike and the sound is ok as far as I know( no iva yet )
They are very easy to take off as a whole set and then remove the bottom bowl of each. there are only two jets that I can find in mine, and one is
fixed so can't be adjusted or cleaned. The idle though does need to be kept clean, and having cleaned mine twice, since having dirty fuel in
them, they run very well now indeed.
Jason
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MikeR
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| posted on 23/9/20 at 03:10 PM |
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David you need to fit dcoes
I get where you're coming from & as long as no one else gets hurt do your own thing if it makes you happy.
I've got an idiotic plan to fit dcoes but not add fuel to them, make a steel inlet manifold and fit injectors to that. The hope is I then have
retro looking fuel injection.
Until it works, I've got a standard dgv ..... I may (when I get round to it) even IVA with the dgv.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/9/20 at 08:14 PM |
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MikeR, you may be surprised by the DGV - I used to be able to squeak the back tyres in almost every gear with the original carb, even though it
hadn't been on a rolling road. I think this was due to the acceleration jet squirting a pulse of fuel down the spout whenever I floored the
pedal rapidly. The bike carbs do give loads of power and also a very good low-end performance, but I never get the same kick on initial acceleration -
those carbs just don't have that 'feature'.
Don't worry though - as I said above, the bike carbs may get refitted in the future!
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