JoaoCaldeira
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 12:30 PM |
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When will MNR start accepting new orders?
Hi.
IIRC MNR stop accepting orders a few weeks ago due to too much work.
Does anyone know when will they accept new orders?
Also I had the idea that Marc usually responds U2Us very quickly, but I've sent one Tuesday and it was not even read - also he didn't post
for a few days... Does anyone know what is the best way to contact hime in a written mode (as I don't speak english that well)?
Thanks
Joao Caldeira
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Agriv8
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 12:59 PM |
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Hi JoaoCaldeira.
I am sure Marc will contact you soon. I seem to remember he posted a while ago that the time he would be spending on the forum would be reduced.
I am also sure he will let the forum know when he is available to take on 'one off' work.
Kind regards
Agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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MikeR
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 01:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
Hi
There is a simple cure for MNR not accepting orders, place your order with another supplier.....
Regards
Not exactly a helpful response!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 01:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
Hi
There is a simple cure for MNR not accepting orders, place your order with another supplier.....
Regards
Not exactly a helpful response!
Careful Mike, you'll be on the hitlist next after Hellfire and then me!
Pat 
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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RichieC
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 02:50 PM |
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Marc is away for the week.
As far as not accepting orders, I think this is only for non kit purchases.
Soon as hes back my deposit is down for a VortxRT - Hurry up Norden 
Rich
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smart51
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 04:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Soon as hes back my deposit is down for a VortxRT - Hurry up Norden
Rich
Marc was out all week (He's back now - I spoke to him 1/2 hour ago). His dad has been in all week to take phone calls. If you want to buy a
kit, I'm sure they'll take your deposit. I couldn't speak for the delivery time they'll quote you.
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RichieC
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 04:49 PM |
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Happy Camper
He is indeed back - Cheques on its way
Rich
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JoaoCaldeira
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 05:31 PM |
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What are you ordering?
For which engine?
For what use?
I still have a few doubts...
Joćo Caldeira
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RichieC
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 05:32 PM |
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VortxRT
R1
Road use and some track work
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JoaoCaldeira
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| posted on 2/12/05 at 05:43 PM |
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That is precisley what I'm considering ordering.
Do you have a list of every bit you'll order?
How much will you spend (for now )?
Where will you get your engine? From MNR?
Joao
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JoaoCaldeira
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 12:26 AM |
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My biggest conserns / doubts are:
. is RT chassis enought triangulated (as RT+ is way more)
. brake callipers: standard Sierra or Raceleda, etc... (especially due to weight - front)
. using a donnor or just buy needed parts (especially if not using sierra brake callipers)
. seat: basic FG highback, or trimmed
Joao Caldeira
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andy d (rizla)
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 08:10 AM |
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yep its triangulated enough ive had mine over a year,done 0ver 5,000 miles and done track days,sprints and hill climbs
and done well i might ad,whitch is good considering im 6ft 3in and 17 stone
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marc n
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 10:55 AM |
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yep im now back
starting to wade through my mail, should be back to normal next week
we are taking orders for kits, and general parts but not custom components,
the main reason for this is so we can help and support our existing customers better to help them get on the road as soon as possible
best regards
marc
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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RichieC
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 01:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoaoCaldeira
That is precisley what I'm considering ordering.
Do you have a list of every bit you'll order?
How much will you spend (for now )?
Where will you get your engine? From MNR?
Joao
Sorry for not getting back sooner, my wife gave birth yesterday so things have been a bit hectic.
Quickly, Ive gone for a fairly standard RT nothing too gucci I ended up buying the donor parts in rather than breaking a car, if youre building
and MNR you dont really need that much off the donor so for me it wasnt worth it.
Rgds
Rich
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JoaoCaldeira
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 06:25 PM |
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Congrats for you and your wife!!!!
I've twins with two and a half years, but it seems it was AWAY LONGER!!!
About the car... I agree with you about the donnor bits - finally one decision made
I'm in a budget, but would like to have a light front wheel assembly (gyroscopic forces) and a DigiDash (just bought it to feel I'm doing
something )
Enjoy your last days of full sleeping nights 'till wife gets home and the best of luck with the baby
Joao
[Edited on 05/12/3 by JoaoCaldeira]
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RichieC
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 11:48 PM |
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Thanks so much for the kind words, making the most of it until the sleepless nights start!!
Ive gone for a lightweight setup where possible so 240mm front discs and calipers (plain not vented) and drum back end. The only luxury Ive afforded
myself was an LSD so a little butchery required to run the LSD with drum shafts (I need to change the CV joints for Lobros but thats a well documented
procedure for Sierra owners).
Everything else is going to be pretty minimal and a Digidash 2 Lite I think (OK second luxury!)
Thanks again, any other question please drop me a line Id be happy to share what though tprocesses I went through.
Rgds
Rich
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JoaoCaldeira
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 07:55 AM |
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Definitly I want to know everything about your process of choosing the parts
I've build a spredsheet with the components I've been thinking of (actually I'll sent it to Marc so he analyzes what makes sense and
what could be improved)
Still don't know what setup will be running in the front (don't know if can afford raceleda kind of stuff) but will go for discs in the
rear with LSD. I think the look of drums will spoil it (although they are lighter, cheaper, up to the job, etc...)
What will you use to drive the engine timming, injection...? Power Commander?
Found rad and fan from R1 on eBay (13 hours to go, UKP 60) - which I'll let go - but I intend to buy something similliar, as will make plumbing
easier.
Also on eBay there are lots of cans so I may get one from eBay, too.
Another bit I found on eBay was bike mirrors with side repeaters on them. for 25 seems OK.
What is the recommended size for the steering wheel? Just remebered the other stravaganza I may go for - Isotta Vallelunga steering wheel (I'm
dreaming with it for 3 or 4 year now ) but It's 340 mm and I don't know if it's too big. I'll mount it over a quick reease
boss so it can be used as a deterement for thiefes.
For now I wont fit a reverse mechanism but I intend in the future fir an electric reverse one.
Pedal box... I'll go with Marc's.
Well... can you please check my xls ans write your thouts?
Joao
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RichieC
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 10:20 PM |
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I posted a big long reply and then lost it so Ill have another go
I agree 100% about discs looking better than drums, but for me, I saw this as a weight saving measure (all be it slight) without loosing braking
efficiency. There have been threads comparing the weights of the drum and disc setup and theres not much in it, but there is a difference and like
you say theyre cheaper. Ill give them a whirl and see how I get on.
Im going with a carbed R1 engine 99/2000 for no other reasons than theyre cheap/plentiful and easy to work with.
Radiator wise, I need to take advice on it but I think Ill probably use a Micra or Polo one as they are lightweight, small and have temp sensors built
it, its just a case of plumbing them up. I dont see what would stop you from using the R1 rad however, like I say Im not decided on that yet.
It wont be an issue for you, but Im sticking with the standard Ford steering wheel to help with SVA, but after that its getting ditched for a smaller
suede one. Ive used various makes in the past but OMP and Sparco are both excellent.
Good idea picking bits up from eBay, Ive been doing the same and fiddly bits like indicators, mirrors, fuse boxes and consumables are all over the
place.
Pedal box, like you Ive chosen the MNRs, ready to go.
Ive basically gone for a sort of starter kit to begin with, so, kit/bodywork, propshaft, tunnel cover, fuel tank, pedal box and MNR loom. I was
originally intending to use the R1 loom, but having spoken to Chris, I decided it wasnt worth the headaches so I opted for their custom one.
I note from your xls you mention EBC pads. Youll get mixed reviews on these, but I have used them in the past and was far from impressed. We always
ran Mintex on the raly car (largely cos they sponsored us!) and the 1144 and 1155 compounds were superb. I also ran the 1144 on my road car (Impreza)
when they were first sold as CTech and they were great from cold and did not fade. I dont have any experience of pads on kit cars so this is just my
opinion, but I always think of pads like oils and plugs, once you find a brand you trust, you tend to stick with them.
Hope this helps, anything else just shout
Kind Rgds
Rich
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 11:29 PM |
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just so you know if the R1 rad is plumbed correctly it wont have any cooling problems
its lighter and comes with all the correct holes(obviously)
chris
I think youll want no bigger than 330mm on the steering wheel mate
300mm if you can
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RichieC
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 11:32 PM |
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Good news on the R1 rad. I wasnt sure how it would do behind a nose cone.
Rich
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RichieC
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 11:43 PM |
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Are the standard fans any good? IIRC, theyre fairly puny
Rich
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 5/12/05 at 09:28 AM |
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Hey all!
Thought I'd join in seeing as I seem to be building to the same spec as you two.
As for brakes, I'd agree, I'm going for rear drums as they save a small amount in unsprung weight and also because the donor I sourced has
them on! The diff I'm using is the donor's, which is the 3.38 open diff. I'm pretty sure that this will suffice for the time
being as I've heard that the LSD's 'limiting' action can be a little harsh. And I don't have a huge amount of experience
with these types of cars around the track.
As for cooling, I've plumped for the Seat Arosa radiator as it's the biggest that will fit under the VortX nose cone and is still nice and
light. The reason for going bigger than standard R1 is due to cooling issues when thinking about tuning the engine... I have plans to use a small
(<50hp) shot of NOS at some point and want to make sure the motor stays nice and warm not boiling! Saying that the guys in the states that put
silly NOS shots on these motors still use the standard R1 rad...
Chris.
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RichieC
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| posted on 5/12/05 at 02:51 PM |
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IIRC the arosa is the same as the polo rad, and yeh, the R1 fan is a lot smaller.
Dont get mixed up with LSDs though Winston, the Sierra used a viscous coupling version so its not a proper limited slip diff and they dont lock
suddenly like other LSDs. Because they are hydrostatic, they are more progressive and not as snatchy. Handling characteristics are affected by using
an LSD, so Ill see how I get on with it.
Kind Rgds
Rich
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 5/12/05 at 03:56 PM |
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I have heard that even though they are viscous couplings they still aren't overly progressive. This is obviously an opinion based on other
people's... I have no personal experience.
I have just heard that they can be more trouble than they are worth so I decided to start with an open diff (with a weight saving) and then progress
to an LSD when and if I need the traction.
Chris.
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Bryan Sears
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 04:28 PM |
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Hi looks like we are all building the same spec car so it must be the right choice.
I have just started my build.
The good thing is that the parts are easy to change at a later date if you change your mind and you can just sell your old parts on eBay.
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