donut
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posted on 18/6/06 at 02:35 PM |
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Good quality torque wrench
I have bought myself a Rover V8 block and will be building it up to a fully built engine and i require a decent torque wrench for the job. Do you have
any recomendations for a good quality but not Snap on money wrench?
Cheers in advance.
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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12a RX-7
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posted on 18/6/06 at 02:40 PM |
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we use Norbar ones at work, bought one from Buck and Hickman a few years back and they are very reasonably priced for a quality and properly
calibrated bit of kit
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ned
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posted on 18/6/06 at 06:29 PM |
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built my engine with a reasonable draper one Andy, has done the job and certainly didn't break the bank.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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rusty nuts
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posted on 18/6/06 at 06:36 PM |
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Can't beat a Britool torque wrench .
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donut
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posted on 18/6/06 at 07:18 PM |
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Cheers chaps. I'll have a scout round on the internet with your suggestions.
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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atomic
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posted on 19/6/06 at 10:35 AM |
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Must agree with rusty nuts. Brittool are very good. There are a few other notable makes. Snap-On while very good are expensive and there is also
Teng.
I have quite a few Teng tools and find them to be very good for the money.
Basically you pay's you money and take your pick.
This may help
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product_test/59647/torque_wrenches.html
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donut
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posted on 19/6/06 at 01:00 PM |
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That Draper one looks a good buy then!!
I have got my dads old one from 1932 (ish - sorry dad!!) but i can't be too sure of it's acuracy.
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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ned
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posted on 19/6/06 at 01:28 PM |
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i was told that you should always unwind them to the min setting when not in use as otherwise the spring inside can stretch over time and the wrench
loses its accuracy.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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James
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posted on 19/6/06 at 02:45 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by ned
i was told that you should always unwind them to the min setting when not in use as otherwise the spring inside can stretch over time and the wrench
loses its accuracy.
Ned.
Agreed, knackers them after not too long if the spring's kept under tension.
Andy,
I bought a Teng one. Cost about £35 afterhunting around. Does (IIRC) 40-280 or so.
I could actually do with one lower for some bits of Golf engine but I wanted it for Sierra hub nuts!
It's fantastic quality and probably my favourite bit of kit I've bought for this project!
HTH,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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James
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posted on 19/6/06 at 03:43 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by donut
"I have bought "
"and will be building it up to a fully built engine "
"and i require"
Donut,
What a lot of 'I's.
You sure it's really 'you' who will require the torque wrench?
Cheers,
James
Sorry.... it's just too easy sometimes....
[Edited on 19/6/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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donut
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posted on 19/6/06 at 03:45 PM |
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Cheeky bugger!!
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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C10CoryM
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posted on 19/6/06 at 04:20 PM |
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I wouldn't get too carried away with expensive torque wrenches for hobby automotive projects. Most fasteners require even torque, but not so
accurate torque. Meaning that if the spec is 50ft/lbs they can be 47-53ft/lbs so long as all the bolts are the same amount off.
If they are all the same torque, there will be no warpage.
If you buy a good torque wrench and do not calibrate it often its no more accurate than a cheap wrench. I have a $350 snap-on wrench for work, and
a $35 el cheapo wrench for home. Both are accurate enough to do anything automotive. Snap-on one *should* be calibrated yearly but Im gentle on my
stuff so I can go a couple years. The cheap one has stayed the same for 5yrs now. For hobby stuff just buy another cheap wrench when it stretches.
Its cheaper than getting it calibrated.
Cheers.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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rusty nuts
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posted on 19/6/06 at 05:45 PM |
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It may be cheaper than calibrating a good torque wrench until you shear a bolt /strip threads etc . Andy what make is your dads old one ? it may be
possible to get it calibrated and serviced for not alot of money . For the amount of work you would do with it , if returned to zero after every use
it would last you a life time and its always nice to have something of your dads
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donut
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posted on 19/6/06 at 06:53 PM |
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It's a Williams Autotorque. It's old but my dad's the sort of chap who will spend the money and get decent stuff that will last and
he does look after his stuff. He used to adapt and make tools for engine rebuilding but they got stolen from his MG roadster about 15 years ago.
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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James
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posted on 19/6/06 at 07:29 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by rusty nuts
and its always nice to have something of your dads
Agreed most of 'my' tools are my Dad's. I just bought stuff I 'needed' for the Locost. Grinder etc.
I regularly use (and have just put one down to write this) tools he inherited from my Grandfather who died 40 years ago!
Still working fine all these years on.
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 19/6/06 by James]
[Edited on 19/6/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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