Again i went out to do some welding practice and something else has gone wrong
I brought some new .6mm wire from halfrauds and it keeps getting stuck as its being fed through but the bigger problem is that as i was trying to sort it out it got stuck in the bronze tip (the .6mm one)
Ok, i thought, il undo it. Cant its stuck. Use pliers and the tip has broke in half with half in my hand and the other half still in the tip
I tried making a slit in the top with my dremel so i could undo it with a screwdriver but no good.
Every time this week i have tried to do work on my car, something has gone drasticly wrong. Does anyone have any idea's as to how i can get the other half out???

I've had that happen - the part where the steel wire melts inside the tip but I have always managed to get the tip to unscrew.

By pressing the torch for a split second will set off the wire feed so there should be no tension pulling on the tip.... but unfortunately you are passed that point.

Give it a try, cut a slot in the copper. maybe some heat and lube then try to unscrew.... but seems that you need to get a new torch, not what you want to hear.

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Originally posted by 02GF74
I've had that happen - the part where the steel wire melts inside the tip but I have always managed to get the tip to unscrew.

By pressing the torch for a split second will set off the wire feed so there should be no tension pulling on the tip.... but unfortunately you are passed that point.

Give it a try, cut a slot in the copper. maybe some heat and lube then try to unscrew.... but seems that you need to get a new torch, not what you want to hear.

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might be worth trying to carefully drill it out with a small drill.

Wouldnt that damage the tread?

Its only an M5 in hobby migs or M6 bigger machines, so re-tapping to clean its no problem. You dont need to buy a full torch though, just the neck, and they're only a few quid try searching on fleaBay for mig neck.
Rgds.
Pete.

You should be able to buy only the swan neck piece, cheaper than the whole torch if you can't get the remains of the tip out.

Take the bit with you as there any many different torches available

Sounds like it's been tightened to much, try screwing in by hand and a slight nip with pliers in future

Cheers
David

Cheers guys, feel much better now

if you do buy a new lead , get a long one 3m allows a bit jiggery pokery , i think mine was only £19 .

Make sure the tip is for 0.6mm. If it is a 0.8mm, you will always have the same problem.
I have never liked 0.6mm as it always seems to wind up on the drive wheels.
I always use 0.8mm.

I would say weld something to the broken off bit............but you cant!!!

Did that to a couple of necks when I was learning..

I now keep a set of tips and spare swan neck in the workshop drawer.

Yep - I always had problems with 0.6 so I always use 0.8.

You can buy new copper tips from Halfords, but they're for SIPS, but thread should be the same.

Pat...

quote:

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Originally posted by Dragon-Performance-Eu
Maybe you should take up knitting instead

Have you ever had the feeling some higher power is sending you a subtle message

one thats say "dont build your own car"

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Cut the wire inside the machine, take the gas shroud off and get hold of what's left of the tip with mole grips to get it out. Your wire is too slow if it's burning back to the tip. Get some more practise and don't get put off, not everybody is brilliant straight away, just put starting the chassis back a month while you learn a bit more than the basics and don't rush it.

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Originally posted by Peteff
Cut the wire inside the machine, take the gas shroud off and get hold of what's left of the tip with mole grips to get it out. Your wire is too slow if it's burning back to the tip. Get some more practise and don't get put off, not everybody is brilliant straight away, just put starting the chassis back a month while you learn a bit more than the basics and don't rush it.

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You can get spare tips/shrouds &wire from B&Q's of all places, I use them cos they're cheaper (and closer) than machine mart !

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
Cut the wire inside the machine, take the gas shroud off and get hold of what's left of the tip with mole grips to get it out. Your wire is too slow if it's burning back to the tip. Get some more practise and don't get put off, not everybody is brilliant straight away, just put starting the chassis back a month while you learn a bit more than the basics and don't rush it.

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.6 welding wire should be fine provided the wire feed tension is set correctly.

I seldom use anything else. Prety essential on low power MIGs

I would be tempted to go to a proper welding suplier and buy a 5kg roll of wire.
Some of the small reels are a pain in the ass & tend to be of poor quality.

Ronnie

[Edited on 3/1/08 by bonzoronnie]

You could also try these people
http://www.wwsgroup.co.uk/wws/pages/home/index.asp

i prefer 0.8mm myself with the wirefeed slightly slower.

Whenever my wire melts onto the tip i rub it square on a file, after a few moments the wire is free and it springs a few mm out. Ive also managed to unscrew it before, though you have to twist the wire into the flex. Dont give up, whatever some miserable git says!

oh dear, I'd also recommend you try an 0.8mm wire, you will find it better behaved due to it's extra strength against buckling. Don't panic welders can be evil things sometimes, just don't give in, you should have seen my welding when I started

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
Cut the wire inside the machine, take the gas shroud off and get hold of what's left of the tip with mole grips to get it out. Your wire is too slow if it's burning back to the tip. Get some more practise and don't get put off, not everybody is brilliant straight away, just put starting the chassis back a month while you learn a bit more than the basics and don't rush it.

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You could be holding it too close or not moving fast enough as well. If it pushes back and spits it is too fast for the power setting. Get some 16g plate and practise runs on it pushing the gun away from you with one hand holding and one steadying the shroud. Keep the inside of the shroud clear of spatter as it will conduct from the tip if you touch it down.