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Author: Subject: Head swop
LBMEFM

posted on 28/3/10 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
Head swop

Thinking about changing the head on my Fireblade engine, looking at the manual looks tricky with regards to the valve timing. Any comments or tips.? Barry
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adithorp

posted on 28/3/10 at 07:11 PM Reply With Quote
...and I thought this was going to be a Werzel Gumage thread.

adrian





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

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Andy B

posted on 28/3/10 at 07:49 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Barry
no real dramas on the blade, bring the crank up to top dead on the mark on the pulse generator rotor - note this lines up with the notch in the top of the cover and not the bit of casting that looks like a pointer, check the inlet and exhaust cam sprockets have their lines flush with the top of the cylinder head casting and you are in business.
Basically if you have to persuade yourself that the lines are almost level it normally means you are a tooth out, they will line up perfectly unless you are using a skimmed head or vernier sprockets, if you get any bother give me a bell
regards
Andy

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LBMEFM

posted on 30/3/10 at 06:34 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Andy
Thanks for that
Cheers Barry

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Brommers

posted on 30/3/10 at 10:20 AM Reply With Quote
Oh, and quick tip which was certainly the case on the Blackbird engine and may be the same on the Fireblade. The cams can of course be 180 degrees out and the flush lines will still line up with the top of the head. To assist in getting it right, the manual shows where the lobes on #1 cylinder should be when the crank's at TDC. On the 'bird, #1 cylinder's at the end furthest away from the cam sprockets, not (as one might assume from the drawings) the one nearest the sprockets. That's why, after hours of fannying around, I eventually ended up with my cams timed absolutely perfectly 180 degrees out. Doh...
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