JoelP
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 06:15 PM |
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building regs help please!
i have a bathroom with no ventilation/windows, about 10m cubed, and im going to fit a fan.
Does anyone know what spec building regs would require? Ie l/min etc.
Cheers!
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 06:22 PM |
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Building regs wont need to know about it if its an existing bathroom.
Dont over complicate it.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 06:47 PM |
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if you have to have building regs involved ask the inspector what he would like to see done then you only have to do it once.
Ray
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Liam
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 07:02 PM |
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Minimum allowed by the regs is just a fan capable of 15l/s (about 54m3/hr), but that bare minimum is pretty inadequate imho unless you like the room
to be dripping wet after a shower (assuming it has one) and be unable to see anything in the mirror. Sensible recommendations go up to 15-20 room air
changes/hr for a bathroom with shower, so work that out for your room volume. I fit an inline loft mounted fan capable of 250m3/hr in my bathroom
which is about 12m3 and it's great - room dry after a long hot shower. I dont even need the heated mirror I installed which I thought would be a
god-send based on previous experience trying to shave after a shower in a bathroom with a piddly fan.
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BenB
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 07:18 PM |
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I'd over spec the fan (after years of battling against a moudly damp bathroom).
As said the minimum spec is rubbish.
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quinnj3
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 07:51 PM |
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I installed a speed controllable whole house ventilation in my house, when its on boost whilst having a shower the room stays 'fog' free.
The best bit though is probably there is no noise whatsover from the system.
As said don't overcomplicate things but you are right to ask questions as even a very simple job as installing a bathroom fan has a few fairly
important points to ensure effective extraction. A tiny 4 inch fan will work better than most people think if you follow the advice below.
If the fan is going on the ceiling and not on the wall, make sure you do as much of the ducting in solid pipe as possible because the flexi ducting
thats available sags, if not supported properly (ie laid on a solid surface), and fills with water very quickly. This then stops your fan from
working altogether. Also make sure your ductwork has a constant fall towards the outlet as you don't want cold water condensate dripping on
your scone whilst showering! A more obvious tip is to mount the fan directly above the steam source.
If you are mounting it on the ceiling (recommended) you most likely won't have to worry about electrical zones unless you have very low
ceilings. If its on the wall you will have to take the zoning regs into account. This is important but there is plenty of info on the web.
Another tip is to make sure there is adequate air flow under the door. If air can't get in how do you expect a little house fan to create an
airflow?
Hope this helps.
[Edited on 30/7/10 by quinnj3]
my aim is to build my own locost wether it takes me a week or 10 years to get started, i'm sure i will sometime
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v8kid
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 08:51 AM |
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Another way is to ditch the fan and rely on convection if you have space above the bathroom.
After trying to get a silent fan (without sucess) in my steamroom/shower I installed a 4" duct vertically up through the roof using soil pipe
and a standard vented flashing.
The pipe needs to be insulated well for the thermosiphon effect to work and it keeps my room dry and mould free.
Part of the effectiveness is continuous low level ventilation rather than an almighty sook and nowt for 24 hours!
Well doccumented in building research docs under energy saving if you want to find out more.
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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JoelP
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 09:14 AM |
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cheers chaps, some good advice there. The bathroom isnt against an outside wall so needs 7m of ducting all in. The fan will be remote, halfway down
the run.
Cheers all!
Theres no building inspector involved but i need it to comply incase they find out 
[Edited on 31/7/10 by JoelP]
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 10:12 AM |
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I wouldnt bother with building regs. Just do it and fit a bigger one. For them to work effieciantly though you need some way of replacing the
expelled air. ie door ajar or window open.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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coozer
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 10:21 AM |
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Go to your local plumb/wholesale supplier and they will be able to advise you on which one would be suitable.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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