b14wrc
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posted on 14/7/12 at 07:00 PM |
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Typical height
Hi Guys,
This afternoon I have been messing around with my mock up chassis and my new build table. Tried wheels up against the frame and wondered typically
what should the ride height be?
What sort of distance from the ground to the lower chassis rails should I be aiming for??
Regards, Rob
[Edited on 14/7/12 by b14wrc]
20vt powered rear engined locost
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tomgregory2000
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posted on 14/7/12 at 07:58 PM |
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75-100mm tends to be the norm
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mark chandler
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posted on 14/7/12 at 08:13 PM |
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Mine sits at 3" front, 3.5" rear, only goes on the track.
On the road I think I had 4" front 4.5" rear.
To set up cut up a couple of blocks of wood to just slide under, tape measures are hard work !
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kb58
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posted on 14/7/12 at 09:22 PM |
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What do you plan to drive over/on? Decent streets only? I agree with 88-100mm minimum. Poor quality streets? 100-125mm min. Track? As low as possible
without bottoming.
If you're at the build stage and presumably have already designed the car (or have the plans) there is already a ride height dimension...
[Edited on 7/14/12 by kb58]
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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b14wrc
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posted on 14/7/12 at 09:32 PM |
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Thanks for the comments.
Yes I had looked at it in my design work for CoG calculations and had looked at about 150mm originally, but today I was looking at the real life stuff
and wondered what others were running. Havnt fully finalised the suspension, going to kind of develope it as I go to be honest, worked out were the
pick up points are and derived the front track, rear track is set by the donor cars original track.
Maybe I'm set a little high then. I'm going to run inboard shocks so will easily be able to adjust it.
So lower the better, good good!
20vt powered rear engined locost
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kb58
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posted on 18/7/12 at 01:09 AM |
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Sorry, I didn't mean "track" as in distance between the wheels, I meant that if you're going to drive the car on-track, that
it needs to be as low as possible, short of bottoming.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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froggy
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posted on 20/7/12 at 05:33 PM |
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110mm front and rear on mine but i can come down a bit for trackdays , sump is 12mm below chassis
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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coyoteboy
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posted on 20/7/12 at 06:14 PM |
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None of you worried that you're dramatically altering the suspension curves by operating with ~50mm lower ride height dialed in?
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froggy
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posted on 20/7/12 at 06:26 PM |
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When I went from 13-15" wheels I had to make some fairly large changes to the suspension pickups to get the wishbone angles where they should be
and move the shock mounts to get the travel right . On the road I think 100mm is as low as I would go .,
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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coyoteboy
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posted on 20/7/12 at 06:30 PM |
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Indeed I intend to run 100 on the road, I think lower would end up with too many ground strikes on the UKs roads.
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froggy
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posted on 20/7/12 at 08:13 PM |
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When I went from 13-15" wheels I had to make some fairly large changes to the suspension pickups to get the wishbone angles where they should be
and move the shock mounts to get the travel right . On the road I think 100mm is as low as I would go .,
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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