mazie
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posted on 6/5/16 at 07:12 AM |
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Fuel Tank foam
My fury has an extended tank in that holds juts shy of 40 litres, whilst lovely for touring , out on track its causing the fuel to move about way to
much .
Its not an easy job to remove the tank as its fitted from the top and the tub is bonded in. My solution is to fill it with the little foam cubes.
I'm not fussed about a fuel gauge, Ill use the technical 'pokey stick' to judge fuel level.
Has anyone used it? Where else can I buy it from? I know Merlin Motorsport sell it but its not exactly cheap, not for open cell foam anyone!
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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posted on 6/5/16 at 07:36 AM |
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Might be worth asking any local racing teams if they have any offcuts, often you can get quite big chunks left over, especially when GT teams are
filling a 100lt endurance tank.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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WallerZero
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posted on 6/5/16 at 10:11 AM |
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I was asked about this when looking for my new custom fuel tank. I read into it and dropping bits in was highly advised against. A lot of
manufacturers I found would only foam fill it if they were to make a new tank.
Also if you just fill it with lots of offcuts that are loose, will you not just have that all rolling about instead when driven hard on track?
http://zachsgbszero.blogspot.co.uk/
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907
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posted on 6/5/16 at 11:37 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by WallerZero
I was asked about this when looking for my new custom fuel tank. I read into it and dropping bits in was highly advised against. A lot of
manufacturers I found would only foam fill it if they were to make a new tank.
Also if you just fill it with lots of offcuts that are loose, will you not just have that all rolling about instead when driven hard on track?
100% agree
Paul G
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coyoteboy
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posted on 6/5/16 at 12:10 PM |
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Plenty of places sell 50ism mm cubes. There's no harm in packing with cubes. If it's packed properly it should be perfectly good. Packing
pre-build would be pretty tricky because you'd never know if you were welding/burning it and causing offcuts and problems.
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adithorp
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posted on 6/5/16 at 12:28 PM |
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Are you sure the tent fits from the top? Every fury I've seen goes in from the bottom. On live axle you need to drop the axle to get it out and
on IRS you need to trim out part of the rear valance.
The trouble with foam is the little bits that fall off it, blocking pipes and filters. A mate has had real trouble with that. Much better IMO on a
road car to get the tank baffled.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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mazie
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posted on 6/5/16 at 07:41 PM |
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Adi, pretty sure its from the top, its an extended MG tank ( could be wrong I didn't build it but Adrian on here did ,maybe he knows :-) ) the
lip around the tank sits on top of the chassis member. Looks like id have t cut it out or wait for it to crumble from rust, which its started to do
also . Id like to fit a plastic tank in its place see.
Ill go take a photo now.
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02GF74
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posted on 6/5/16 at 07:58 PM |
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Buy lots of kiddie sized coke cans, drink the coke then make holes in them.
Hopefully theyre small enough to pass through the filler, jam as many as will fit into the tank without rattling et voila. Instant baffles.
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mazie
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posted on 6/5/16 at 08:07 PM |
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no your right its from the bottom! no idea why I remembered it otherwise. So yes I can drop it but like you say I will have to cut more out of the
rear valence. Thats good news to what I was expecting.
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mazie
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posted on 6/5/16 at 08:10 PM |
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now thats a locost suggestion :-) I like that . Thats a lot of mini tonics for the G &T then
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bi22le
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posted on 6/5/16 at 10:18 PM |
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Swirl pot and a low pressure fuel pump?
Mallory has a looooong right Russ so keep the tank topped up!
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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adithorp
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posted on 7/5/16 at 08:49 AM |
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I like the cans idea but think the inevitable rattle would wind me up.
If your thinking of taking the tank out then I'd consider having replacement made in ally'. Plastic tanks are OK but there's few
that are baffled and many have leak issues around the fittings. If going custom ally go for (a) baffles (b) a sump of about 1/2lt with the outlet on
the bottom (not side like many), inlet to sup smaller than sump diameter so fuel is baffled in (my sump is about 10cm dia with a 4cm hole in) (c) the
return pipe into the sump (even if not using inj' it's future proofed) (d) breather pipe in the middle to reduce the effects of swill on
both L+R corners. Bryn at Ally-Fab is often recommended though I've never used him.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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FuryRebuild
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posted on 7/5/16 at 12:57 PM |
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I think when I finish my composite tank, I'll baffle it. I had to scrap the original idea - the moulds were not good in as much as I
couldn't actually load cloth in to them - bad flange design on my behalf.
This is a good thread for sure.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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coyoteboy
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posted on 7/5/16 at 03:12 PM |
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Unbaffled tanks also wreak havoc with your cornering balance due to the dynamic weight shift.
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mazie
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posted on 7/5/16 at 09:59 PM |
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the weight shift is one of the reasons I'm wanting to change things. I'll wait until I've been to mallory in June before I try
anything now. I like the idea of a custom Alloy tank and I'm also wanting to move to Injection next year but what kind of money are we talking
for a custom tank?
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