cast welding
phil clegg - 11/1/09 at 11:39 PM
can anyone tell me where i can have a cast manifold repaired?lancashire or west yorkshire thanks phil.
wrigglypig - 11/1/09 at 11:56 PM
If its cast iron you can buy the cast iron welding rods and use them in an arc welder. You will need to have the manifold off and over something like
a portable gas ring or two to get it upto around 300 degrees before you weld it. But its not too difficult , its just bloody hot! I have welded a few
bits of cast and they have been fine. I have welded 2 cracks in a renauly scenis manifold and also a vintage railway sign that was broken in half.
Kev
trikerneil - 12/1/09 at 06:10 AM
I have used oxy-acetylene and brazed cast iron.
LINKY
Might be easier to get done.
Neil
Agriv8 - 12/1/09 at 08:11 AM
p and a In Bradford re-welded my rover V8 outlet Cast ally to get it pointing in another direction.
Here the are
P & A Engineering Ltd
Crown Works
Parry Lane
Off Bowling Back Lane
Bradford, West Yorkshire
England BD4 8SW
Tel (44) 01274 744887
http://www.panda-engineering.co.uk/
regards
Agriv8
[Edited on 12/1/09 by Agriv8]
BenB - 12/1/09 at 09:47 AM
Mig welding.co.uk suggests it's do-able if you pre-heat the piece first.... They've even got some nice photos showing it being done.....
Equally cast iron sure is porous- it'd grip onto JB weld like a really grippy thing!!!
Peteff - 12/1/09 at 09:52 AM
I'd go with the brazing suggestion if it's not really thick stuff.
JeffHs - 12/1/09 at 10:46 AM
I repaired my Suffolk Punch mower with cast iron rods in a stick welder about 20 years ago - still going strong
jacko - 12/1/09 at 06:29 PM
Pre heat and Mig weld
MikeRJ - 12/1/09 at 11:25 PM
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Pre heat and Mig weld
I did this to the exhaust manifold on my 20V turbo Fiat Coupe which are absolutely reknown for cracking. I v'eed the crack quite deeply, heated
the whole thing up in the oven (what a stink...don't do it when SWMBO is around!) and then welded it whilst keeping a blowlamp directed down the
branch to keep it hot. Got loads of penetration on it and a pretty decent looking weld. Let it cool down very slowly by pulling the blow lamp out
bit by bit and turning it down, then wrapped a fire blanket over it and let it cool down itself.
However, it distorted a little during welding so the flange wasn't totally flat afterwards. I bolted it up, fully expecting it to fail quite
quickly, but it lasted 9 months before it started making tractor-like noises when cold, which is a typical sign of a crack.
Took it apart only to find that it was the gasket that had gone. I guess with all the heat cycling the distortion had been removed and clamping force
had been reduced on one branch. Not a crack in sight either!
Another I did for a friends 5 cylinder Volvo was still working fine when he sold it a couple of years later.
Fiat manifold before:
After MIGing with normal mild steel wire:
Sadly I couldn't weld this up, though I know someone who has welded up a piston after melting it in a 2-stroke bike with alloy MIG and it was
fine!
[Edited on 12/1/09 by MikeRJ]