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Tig welding follow up.
big_wasa - 28/5/09 at 07:13 PM

Thanks for the tips ( Last thread ) Ive had another go, this time ive turned the gas and power down just a touch.

This is what I ended up with. corners are harder though.

[Edited on 28/5/09 by big_wasa]


blakep82 - 28/5/09 at 07:19 PM

WOW
wish i could do that... well done


ashg - 28/5/09 at 07:27 PM

thats a good improvement. the weld looks lots more controled and uniform. there is little bit of undercut from the odd wobble but nothing bad to worry about.

going round circular things is much harder with tig as im sure your finding out.

another little tip is to get a stubby end cap for the torch as it makes it lots easier to get into the hard to reach places.



[Edited on 28/5/09 by ashg]


BenB - 28/5/09 at 07:39 PM

Nice


omega0684 - 28/5/09 at 07:43 PM

teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me teach me


MikeRJ - 28/5/09 at 08:05 PM

Looking good! Perhaps you are a long lost Bogg brother


ashg - 28/5/09 at 08:49 PM

if you want to improve really quickly practice tigging nuts onto plate. it really helps with getting the fine control.



RichieW - 28/5/09 at 09:19 PM

Just make sure they aren't zinc plated....


SPYDER - 28/5/09 at 09:31 PM

Well done that man!
If you're planning on doing a fair amount of TIG, especially circular things, then consider investing in,( or knocking up LOCOST style) a positioner. Basically a slowly revolving chuck device that enables you to keep the torch still and do a whole circular weld without stopping. My tame welder wouldn't be without his.
You'll soon be welding like this.....



ashg - 28/5/09 at 09:55 PM

i have a rotating table but its no good for welding in situe.

blimey this is starting to sound like the welding forum lol.


ashg - 28/5/09 at 09:56 PM

spyder your build is looking very nice. do you have any more pictures?


907 - 28/5/09 at 10:07 PM

The trick, if you have a shaky hand, is to persuade people that it's a "special sort of weave".




Paul G


welderman - 28/5/09 at 10:39 PM

quote:
Originally posted by 907
The trick, if you have a shaky hand, is to persuade people that it's a "special sort of weave".




Paul G


i agree with Mr G


SPYDER - 28/5/09 at 10:41 PM

quote:
Originally posted by ashg
spyder your build is looking very nice. do you have any more pictures?


Absolutely loads......
It's a Stuart Taylor Phoenix. 929 Blade. Lots of Titanium and CF.








hellbent345 - 28/5/09 at 10:59 PM

oh good lord, that is a sexy car! want it want it want it want it want it want it!!!


MikeRJ - 28/5/09 at 11:34 PM

Why rod ends on the roll bar supports? Or are they something else?


wilkingj - 29/5/09 at 07:47 AM

quote:
Originally posted by 907
The trick, if you have a shaky hand, is to persuade people that it's a "special sort of weave".
Paul G

WOW I'm a special welder



[Edited on 29/5/2009 by wilkingj]


SPYDER - 29/5/09 at 11:03 AM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Why rod ends on the roll bar supports? Or are they something else?


Hi there. We used rod ends at the bottom of the rear stays for two reasons. It makes it easy to get the length right and enables you to leave the lower ends connected while you feed the bodywork over the top. The stays poke through two holes during body mounting and are then bolted through at the top. They only have rod ends at the bottom.
Oh, and welded ally rear stays look nice.
Thats three reasons then.
Yes, we know steel would be stronger but the car does have a full cage.
Geoff.