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whats the best way to remove this?
blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 08:39 PM



need to replace the flange, but i don't know how i'll get in to cut the old one off...

won't be able to get in with a grinder disc. band saw could be a possibility but risk making a bik mistake.

i MUST not lose any length on the header pipes.

cd.thomson - 14/4/10 at 08:41 PM

hammer

blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 08:42 PM

helpful. it is welded on remember

Steve Hignett - 14/4/10 at 08:43 PM

Why won't you be able to cut it off with a cutting disc???

jacko - 14/4/10 at 08:44 PM

Cut the back plate up with a cutting disc and whittle it away
I would tack weld a bar across the pipes to stop them moving apart
Graham

cd.thomson - 14/4/10 at 08:44 PM

ah im in a bad mood from all this cramming im trying to do for my interview so I've been winding people up all evening sorry.

If you cant use the usual powertools then maybe youre looking at a hacksaw with lots of blades and quite a bit of blood/sweat?

blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 08:46 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Why won't you be able to cut it off with a cutting disc???


i'd only be able to get at the welds along the top, i wouldn't be able to get the grinder in between the pipes, and definitely not the underside of the pipes

big-vee-twin - 14/4/10 at 08:49 PM

How about a Dremmel or similar with a tiny cutting disk

blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 08:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Cut the back plate up with a cutting disc and whittle it away
I would tack weld a bar across the pipes to stop them moving apart
Graham


was thinking about welding a brace across it. then i wondered how much an exhaust builder like simpson for example would charge to do it for me?

craig, hacksaw might take me months on stainless

i'll set about it with thin cutting discs in the grinder, see how close i can get in without actually starting it

how far are the pipes likely to spring? i can handle about 2mm or so... the pipes are a fair bit bigger than the exhaust ports on the head

[Edited on 14/4/10 by blakep82]

David Jenkins - 14/4/10 at 08:55 PM

Do you know anyone who's got a reciprocating saw like this?

Machine Mart saw

They cut reasonably well with the correct blade - not 100% accurate, but not bad.

Otherwise I'd buy a number of good-quality hacksaw blades, mount 1 in the frame at 90 degrees to normal (just rotate the blade holders) and get stuck in. A bit of cutting fluid or paste will help things along.


[Edited on 14/4/10 by David Jenkins]

blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 08:59 PM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Do you know anyone who's got a reciprocating saw like this?

[img]http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/medium/06/060113151.jpg?[/img]

They cut reasonably well with the correct blade - not 100% accurate, but not bad.


sadly not. could have a word with the guy who just rebuilt the axle, as he had to have a little machining done on the drive shafts, maybe whoever did that has something? perhaps milling on the cylinder head side of the flange, through to the weld would be the neatest way?

or even if i can get round the top and sides of the weld, then maybe the bottom can be bent til it cracks? (not ideal...)

blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 09:01 PM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Otherwise I'd buy a number of good-quality hacksaw blades, mount 1 in the frame at 90 degrees to normal (just rotate the blade holders) and get stuck in. A bit of cutting fluid or paste will help things along.


hmm, might work too, but stainless would be hard work wouldn't it?

Bluemoon - 14/4/10 at 09:02 PM

If the port spaceing is correct can you not make an adapter plate if you can't cut it up..

MakeEverything - 14/4/10 at 09:02 PM

Do it on the band saw or get a reciprocating one. Ive got an air fed reciprocating saw, and its perfect for jobs like this.

55ant - 14/4/10 at 09:04 PM

horizontal band saw gets my vote.

whitestu - 14/4/10 at 09:14 PM

A good quality hacksaw blade and some elbow grease is the locost way. Think of all the calories you'll burn off!

Stu

Steve Hignett - 14/4/10 at 09:17 PM

I must be missing something, you'd get almost all the way through with a 1mm cutting disc in a grinder. Prob get all the way through if it looks like mine (Minus the guard) and then of not, just finish the last bit with a decent blade'd hacksaw - you'd get through it in not time...

RazMan - 14/4/10 at 09:26 PM

A large diameter cutting wheel should get most of it

indykid - 14/4/10 at 09:45 PM

as has been said, why can't you make an adaptor plate?

tom

blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 09:55 PM

quote:
Originally posted by indykid
as has been said, why can't you make an adaptor plate?

tom


the plate's are very different, all the bolt holes don't line up, and with 'extentions' welded around the edges, it would be difficult to get a seal. and i'f i was to weld a new flange onto the one already there, then the exhaust won't fit in the transmission tunnel. beleive me, this is the only way to do it. and i'm not bodging it by welding another plate onto the back of it

just been out to try and set about it. Steve, it might work, its tight to get in the middle two pipes, but hopefully shouldn't be 'impossible'.

the spacing is pretty much the same as the red top, by the looks of things, it may be very slightly different, so if they spring out a little it might be a good thing. the middle 2 pipes are correct, but the outer two are very slightly different, and ideally should be corrected.

i'll try it with the grinder and see how i go. nervous... don't want to ruin it!

mangogrooveworkshop - 14/4/10 at 09:55 PM

Blake come over this side and we will cut it shut it and weld the new plate on.

Even courier it over then come and collect it

blakep82 - 14/4/10 at 10:00 PM

ah nice one where are you exactly? sort of perth way? lol

edit: Kirkcaldy in fact. nice not really toooooo far

reason why it can't be spaced any differently (meant to explain in the last one) is that, currently, the gearbox is in, but not sitting straight down the tunnel. the gearbox mount is maybe 1" out. the gearbox hits the exhaust, and the exhaust hits the tunnel. so you can see it need to be spot on.

[Edited on 14/4/10 by blakep82]

daviep - 14/4/10 at 11:35 PM

9" angle grinder - less than 5 minutes.

t16turbotone - 15/4/10 at 07:25 AM

If it was me, i would weld a piece of s/steel to old flange so i could clamp it in horizontal bandsaw vice, then let the bandsaw do the job...send it to me if you get stuck


tony

Peteff - 15/4/10 at 08:55 AM

quote:
Originally posted by daviep
9" angle grinder - less than 5 minutes.


That will do it easily with a new blade on, or a Stihl saw with a metal cutting blade.

boggle - 15/4/10 at 10:07 AM

i have a spoon here if it helps????

MikeRJ - 18/4/10 at 06:07 PM

If it's so tight you are struggling to cut the old one off will you ever be able to weld a new one on?

blakep82 - 18/4/10 at 10:30 PM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
If it's so tight you are struggling to cut the old one off will you ever be able to weld a new one on?


yep, the end of a welding torch is a lot smaller than an angle grinder!