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Removal of Spark Plugs
Macbeast - 23/11/11 at 02:12 PM

With ( presumably ) steel spark plugs in an aluminium alloy head, is it better to try to unscrew them with the head hot, or cold ? ( Thinking about differential expansion )


Autosri - 23/11/11 at 02:29 PM

I would do it all cold as when you put them back in an torque them up you should get the setting right


nick205 - 23/11/11 at 02:37 PM

I've removed and re-fitted them hot and cold many times and not had any issues.


designer - 23/11/11 at 02:45 PM

Don't forget anti-seize when you install, and try not to use the copper stuff.


r1_pete - 23/11/11 at 02:46 PM

If the plugs are tight removing them with head hot can help.

I put them in cold with a dab of copper grease on the threads.


Autosri - 23/11/11 at 02:49 PM

I think ngk specify not use and grease or anything


designer - 23/11/11 at 02:53 PM

quote:

I think ngk specify not use and grease or anything



Alloy + steel + heat = galvanic corrosion


r1_pete - 23/11/11 at 02:59 PM

quote:
Originally posted by designer
quote:

I think ngk specify not use and grease or anything



Alloy + steel + heat = galvanic corrosion



Agree I've been using a little copper grease for years, on cars and bikes, never had a running issue, or an unmovable plug.


zetec - 23/11/11 at 02:59 PM

I think the use of grease can cause they to be overtightened. I never bother with copper grease but tighten with a torque wrench and never had any issues.


MakeEverything - 23/11/11 at 03:01 PM

quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
quote:
Originally posted by designer
quote:

I think ngk specify not use and grease or anything



Alloy + steel + heat = galvanic corrosion



Agree I've been using a little copper grease for years, on cars and bikes, never had a running issue, or an unmovable plug.


+1


hughpinder - 23/11/11 at 04:23 PM

I always put on copper grease. I've only once had my car serviced by a garage, and when I came to do the next service I couldnt get one of the plugs out (Honda VTEC). Tried hot, cold, release spray, that freezing stuff on etc etc, and eventually ended up snapping the plug and having to take the head off and have it drilled out. The garage didnt use copper grease "because it doesn't make any difference".
Regards
Hugh


Macbeast - 23/11/11 at 05:25 PM

Many thanks


Bare - 23/11/11 at 05:30 PM

Erm..NGK's were the(?) first plug maker to nickel plate their plug threads for the purpose of eliminating Steel/ali corrosion and ultimate seizing.
Typically these Do Not need anti seize on their threads .. Although I still do it out of pure cowardice after having a set of Champion plugs (those were NOT nickel plated) Seize in my XK120 Ended up putting Threadserts into that Cyl head as result.
Moral being: IF your plugs do seize, spark plug hole damage is inevitable.


britishtrident - 23/11/11 at 05:42 PM

Like revenge best done cold but hot is not generally a problem


Tip (1) never use copperslip it actually causes aluminium alloy components to seize on ----

Tip (2) If your plug socket has an internal rubber sleeve extract it throw it to b****** otherwise you will tend to break plugs. With deeply recessed plugs you pull the plugs out with a bit of rubber hose or a plug lead.

Tip (3) Some engines with tapered seat plugs especially Ford Valencia (Fiesta OVH) and BL O series are very prone to plugs shearing off --- take care.

Tip (4) always screw plugs in by hand, if you even slightly suspect the plug is started on the wrong thread unscrewand try again, if still not screwing straight use a plug thread repair chaser tap.


rusty nuts - 23/11/11 at 06:33 PM

Champion plugs in VW aircooloed vengine tend to sieze in the heads whereas I've never had the problem with NGKs . Thrashing Vws to get the engine as hot as possible sometimes helps when removing so I would say hot


Toprivetguns - 23/11/11 at 06:54 PM

We use NGK sparkplugs on our V2500 IAE engine (Airbus A321) and the manuals recommend anti-seize, albeit it a much higher operating temperature. A little lube never hurts as much as no lube ;-)


britishtrident - 23/11/11 at 06:54 PM

Re Coppaslip and aluminium they are not compatible due to bi-metal corrosion, for alloy wheels best practice is to use an aluminium or aluminium & zinc or Aluminium and Graphite based anti-seize compound.

Landrover had major problem with seized on alloy wheels until they issued strict instructions to use Zeta anti-seize compound not copper based.

If you search ebay on "anti-seize aluminium " it should turn up various alternative types.


daviep - 23/11/11 at 08:39 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Bare
Moral being: IF your plugs do seize, spark plug hole damage is inevitable.


I disagree, I've successfully removed broken plugs several times without any thread damage what so ever.

I guess it depends on how skilled / patient you are when trying to recover the situation.

I'm not saying every situation can be recovered but some can.

Davie

p.s. I do love your sweeping statements and the conviction you say them with.


nick205 - 23/11/11 at 10:15 PM

quote:
Originally posted by nick205
I've removed and re-fitted them hot and cold many times and not had any issues.


ETA...

Never used any form of grease on the threads, just make sure they're clean and don't over tighten things.


mcerd1 - 24/11/11 at 09:12 AM

quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Tip (3) Some engines with tapered seat plugs especially Ford Valencia (Fiesta OVH) and BL O series are very prone to plugs shearing off --- take care.

I did that once on my old fiesta (mk1 1.1) - got away without taking the head off by the skin of my teeth

I always uesd copper grease on them after that (and was very careful when tightening them)
but since I've changed to acar with an alloy head I don't use any grease, but I do torque them (blacktop zetec 1.8 )


oh and I've always done it on a old engine

[Edited on 24/11/2011 by mcerd1]