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Rage saw whadya reckon
splitrivet - 14/9/12 at 07:44 AM

A few weeks ago bought a Rage 3 to help build a couple of inlet manifolds and was well impressed cleanish cold cuts, spot on.
However after about 20 cuts into 38mm exhaust tubing the cuts are well raggy if I didnt know better I'd think the blade was fecked but the blurb tells me it can cope with material a lot heavier, I know a few of you guys have them have you had the same experience.
Cheers,
Bob

SeaBass - 14/9/12 at 08:12 AM

Are you cutting stainless? It's a lot more demanding on blades than mild steel which is probably what the heavy rating is for.

ashg - 14/9/12 at 08:56 AM

cant beat a good band saw with coolant.

Minicooper - 14/9/12 at 10:22 AM

I've cut hundreds of mild steel tubes including the larger heavy walled stuff, still cuts like a knife through butter, if you were to do, cut after cut quickly that could overheat it, I'm very carefull not to labour or put excessive weight on the blade

Cheers
David

nick205 - 14/9/12 at 11:16 AM

Not cut that much steel with mine (mainly 25mm x 1.6mm box), but a lot of wood including nail infested stuff. Still cuts very well.

From past experience, cutting thinner walled stuff can be harder on blades as each tooth strikes harder. Thicker stuff seems to let the teeth cut more steadily. This may be worsened as the Rage blades have fairly large open teeth.

Stainless will also be much harder on the blade. Stainless chop saw blades usually have a much finer tooth pitch and cut slower with plenty of coolant. Trying to add coolant to the Rage saw would be amusing!

mcerd1 - 14/9/12 at 02:08 PM

quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Trying to add coolant to the Rage saw would be amusing!

just use a squeezy bottle like you would when your drilling - nice and locost

nick205 - 14/9/12 at 08:15 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Trying to add coolant to the Rage saw would be amusing!

just use a squeezy bottle like you would when your drilling - nice and locost



I meant more the blade speed which is quite fast and would chuck the coolant everywhere, but on the work piece. You also need both hands to hold the work piece and saw in place (unless you make a saw table) and operate the saw.

daniel mason - 14/9/12 at 08:38 PM

mine has failed on me after aboutt 20 cuts. i bought ex demo so no comeback either!

splitrivet - 14/9/12 at 10:38 PM

Not cutting stainless just bog standard mild, think i might go back to my lidl chop saw and save it for special occasions, rather have the £160 back though.
Cheers,
Bob

Minicooper - 18/9/12 at 06:24 PM

I would complain if you can, when these saws came out they were claiming a thousand cuts per blade, although I can't find that claim anymore, maybe there's a good reason it's no longer claimed?

Cheers
David

FASTdan - 27/9/12 at 11:29 AM

I use one for cutting my inlet manifold tubing - have had it 2 years and in that time re-sharpened the blade 3 times (each time costing a mere £5). Mostly aluminium but I'd say in that time its done:

170 aluminium inlet manifolds @ 7 cuts per manifold = 1190 cuts (mostly 45mm tube, 3mm wall)

estimated 20 mild steel self weld manifolds @ 7 cuts per manifold = 140 cuts (mostly 45mm tube, 1.5mm wall)

Plus various other thicker alu plate work and some mild steel bar and box.

I cannot fault that in both value for money and efficiency in cutting - any alternative abrasive saw etc would be twice as slow and less versatile. Cuts are not perfect, but plenty good enough for most fab work.

If I had one gripe it would be that the blade can sometimes 'chatter' side to side as you make the initial contact on the work piece (more evident on alu than MS) which can leave a small gouge at either side of the cut.