Any ideas how to remove a sheared engine moutning bolt? The head has come off leave all the rest off the bolt in the engine block mounting part. Is it safe with only 3 bolts in?

Cheers

Drill out with a left hand drill bit. or use an easy out.

Try welding a nut onto remains of bolt if you have a mig welder, heat from welding and being able to use spanner on nut will often shift a broken bolt or stud, also works sometime on broken bleed nipples, may work with arc welder as well. If nut wrings off try again, Best of luck Rusty

I'm with Rusty. Did the same to remove a sheared stud from the manifold of my Cav a few weeks ago. It worked a treat.

me too, i had a stuck brake bleed nipple a while ago, so i welded a 4 foot bar onto it that learned it a lesson it wont forget in a hurry. i actually sawed it off and reused it...

I used one of those stud removal things for a exhaust manifold bolt that was flush with the head face. Just drilled a hole in the middle of it and screwed the thing in and out it came - easy and less drastic then welding!
Pat...

If you can hold a nut on it and weld through the hole in the middle you might get it, a bit fiddly if it's less than M10 but you can do it. Stud extractors are o.k. but use the biggest you can as they do shear and are impossible to drill out if they break. If it's M8 try grinding the top flush with the block then centrepunch it and drill with a 6mm drill then tap it.

As already mentioned by Peteff stud extractors sometimes work, BUT If you break one they are impossible to drill out. With welding on a nut as long as you position the nut directly over the broken bolt the worst that can happen is the weld breaking. If that happens weld on another nut and try again. Have done this many times with good results. Haven't used stud extractors for years, Also works with locking wheel bolts that have lost/ broken adaptors. Rusty

another vote for welding, can never get on with those Ezi out things Evi, pure Evil !