My current car has nothing underneath that I would call a 'jacking point', so I need to use the sill points. But I want to use a slotted
jack pad to save collapsing the weld seam.
The proper pads aren't cheap, but it's a fairly basic design that I could cut out of a rubber block. Problem is, I don't know what type
of rubber I'm looking for. The various Ebay versions do just say 'rubber'. Is there anything specific I could look for that would do
the trick?
I found a pair on ebay less than £7. They are made of a very hard rubber.
Ice hockey puck and an angle grinder
They are about £1.50 each
[Edited on 12-4-20 by ken555]
Hockey pucks.
Although, seriously, just buy one (or three if you wanted to use them on axle stands), they're cheap enough to avoid all the faff of cutting
them.
[Edited on 12/4/20 by PorkChop]
Hockey pucks were my first thought, but they're not deep enough. Can they be glued together?
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Hockey pucks were my first thought, but they're not deep enough. Can they be glued together?
I'd just buy one. Not worth the fannying around. Smaller dimension ones are available cheaper.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274304684126
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
I'd just buy one. Not worth the fannying around. Smaller dimension ones are available cheaper.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274304684126
You should always be jacking onto wood packing. If jacking on the sill use a 1 inch thick piece at least a foot long. The teeth of the jack seat bite
into the wood fixing it in place and the soft wood will prevent the sill being damaged while also spreading the load. If resting on stands its better
to use just the stand (not the extension) so the tube also bites into the wood. This is my Fiesta resting on stands and this is the only setup
I'm prepared to go under the car with, I've been spending days under there. The front is resting on the same setup under the front chassis
rails.
Interesting photos, thanks. I don't understand why you're on the actual seam though? I am fully in support of spreading the load, I like the
idea of it being at least a foot long. But the jack points are actually each side of the seam, not the seam itself. Even the 'widow maker'
spare wheel jack doesn't actually touch the seam, it fits on the metal either side.
I can't really disagree with the pictures, it looks like that seam is staying intact. It's just not something I will be doing.
The sill is made from 3 sheets and the jacking point has extra metal there too, including the weld seam. If you looked at a cross section of the sill
you'd understand. The seam itself is the reinforced part, not the sill area either side of it.
The fun starts when jacking up older cars where the jacking point is weak and the jack just disappears through the sill lol fortunately this car is
fine.
Having jacked on a car with a sill jacking point and appropriate pad and folded the sill, I always look for a better spot. Jacking on the seam is a
total no no for me unless you also contact the material either side to stabilise it - you just split the seam or fold it over and let water
penetrate.
[Edited on 13/4/20 by coyoteboy]
Well depends if there is an option, given a choice I will always jack on a hefty subframe or preferably one of the large bolts holding it on the car,
again with a pad of wood cos metal on metal is super slippery.
However if there are no subframes or suspension on the car... I'll jack on the sill near the jacking point and spread the load. I've had to
straighten plenty of sills in the past due to tyre shops jacking up on any convenient bit of body work. A good practice is to also put any removed
wheels under the car, so that if it falls you have some space left.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Well depends if there is an option, given a choice I will always jack on a hefty subframe or preferably one of the large bolts holding it on the car, again with a pad of wood cos metal on metal is super slippery.
However if there are no subframes or suspension on the car... I'll jack on the sill near the jacking point and spread the load. I've had to straighten plenty of sills in the past due to tyre shops jacking up on any convenient bit of body work. A good practice is to also put any removed wheels under the car, so that if it falls you have some space left.
I was quite interested to see that the jacking points on my Nissan are unusual - the front subframe (not that unusual) or the rear diff casing -
nowhere else. The rest of the points (sills) are called out as lift points only for use when all 4 are used together or for safety stands.
https://www.350z-tech.com/attachments/jackpoints1-jpg.27421/
[Edited on 17/4/20 by coyoteboy]