OK have a look at this link, Here
Now - whats your opinion - any good for cleaning up donor components ?
[Edited on 1/2/05 by DaveFJ]
fairy power spray is better for cleaning diff casings
I must get new glasses... I read this header as Clit Bang! 
Oooer!
DJ
Well if you buy any, read the back of the bottle before you put your knob near it Dave. No, it's o.k., doesn't mention genitals on there so
go ahead.
What I choose to do in my spare time is entirely my own concern!
(and I would like to ask the court to take 17 similar incidents into consideration, your honour...)
One & Two pence pieces aren't copper any more though. Tight gits at the treasury found a cheaper alternative. Still at least you can use a
giant magnet to fleece the unsuspecting of their change!
'Coppers' have been copper plated steel since about 1990something.
That stuffs just got something in it that reacts with some metals. Probably releases chlorine gas in the process. (Chemistry lessons were too long ago
now). Actually by reading the label pic, looks like its an acid based cleaner anyway. Should be fun if you stick something really reactive in it. It
will quite possibly also turn your hands a nice shade of pink.
Ive not tried it yet but suspect it will be Phosphoric acid based , this is the same as used in many derusting solutions such as jenolite etc.At work
the cleaners use a phosphoric acid cleaner for descaling cook vessels and another one with detergent added for general cleaning.I keep meaning to some
rusty steel in it to see what effect it has , unfortunately everything at work is made from stainless.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Actually by reading the label pic, looks like its an acid based cleaner anyway. Should be fun if you stick something really reactive in it. It will quite possibly also turn your hands a nice shade of pink.
just use electrolysis for de-rusting, it's great.
Electrolysis works well on bare metal surface ie rusted. However it Dont shift the Black burnt on oily muck.
I invested in a Can of Mr Muscle, and the other one in the local store. ie two makes.
Mr Muscle is crap!. It does work but I had to leave it on for several hours. see my archive for the Black cylinder heads.
Mr M. does work, but is not quick.
The other one worked much better, and got about 80% off in about 10 mins.
Its certinaly better than degreasing agents. They are fine on greasy / oily parts, but when its caked and burnt on, its not so good.
Now... Take ALL the usual precautions with Oven cleaners as they are not very nice, and can cause burns, and the vapours are not good to breathe
in.
I used a double layer of rubber gloves, eye shields etc.
I dont recomend you use these products!
We used Mr Muscle oven cleaner on the diff and gearbox, hold your breathe spray it all over, leave it on for about an hour and spray off with water.
Worked Brilliantly!
(you may want to take more precautions than i did!)
As usual, NS Dev "mr chemist" (see my thread on DIY zinc plating!) uses something a little more rapid!
I tip warm caustic soda (sodium hydroxide, lye) solution over ally casings (after protecting machined surfaces!)
Fizzes a treat, and no dirt left after 5 mins. The hose off (don't wait too long before doing this or there will be no ally left either!!!) and
polish up with a quick blast with the homemade blaster!
All shiny and nice!
Caustic is from Wilco, "Kleen-Off"
Been trying TFR Traffic Film Remover.
Its an alkaline base surfacant.
Made up a fairly strong solution, and left a dirty manifold in it...
I will let you know how I get on... Looks ok, so far, but only been in an hour.
Powdered laundry detergent and water, over a burner and brought to a boil with the parts submerged.
Rise with nylon brush under running hot water.
The hot water and elevated temps help to dry the parts prior to painting, which must be done soon as the parts are now fully degreased and will rust
while you watch.
Yes I see your point... but getting a V8 block in a saucepan and on the hob, has to be done with care, and preferably with the Wife away.
I have considered the dishwasher!!.. but the V8 block wont go in there either
quote:
Originally posted by DaveFJ
OK have a look at this link, Here
Now - whats your opinion - any good for cleaning up donor components ?
[Edited on 1/2/05 by DaveFJ]
The propane burner is 170,000 Btus, and for a pan i take the lid off of my propane grill. I,ve stripped cylinder heads this way.
An engine block could be done in a cut-down oil drum.
The burner is made for outdoor use so the wife doesn't get much say-so.
At least one auto machine shop locally uses a gas heated tank filled with a lye and water solution. for disposal they run the burner until the tank is
dry the scrape out the solids for a much smaller disposal than if they dumped the liquid.
Reminds me of the time years ago when we had a whizz kid chemical salesman call into our office trying to sell some miracle spray on clagg that
cleaned anything.
Part of his patter was to spray this wonder juice onto a rack of 1 1/8 inch copper pipe wipe it off and said copper was gleaming,right after that he
sprayed it on his hand and licked it off showing us how safe it was.
We were impressed and bought a bottle.Two days later the copper pipe went green and began to corrode.
About a month after that the salesman called back for a repeat order and was visibly shocked when he saw the state of the copper pipe and said oh no,
oh no.When we said dont worry about it we wont use it on copper he said it isnt that, after I called on you last time I went round to a local working
mens club with 200 copper topped tables and sold them 5 gallons of the stuff.
Never saw him after that, he probably kicked the bucket after drinking the stuff when doing his demo.
Cheers,
Bob