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Best blade for stainless??
DarrenW - 7/2/05 at 02:15 PM

Can anyone recommend a good jigsaw blade for cutting stainless steel? I went through two metal cutting blades last night and anly managed about 12 inches.

What else have people used apart from a jigsaw? I need a clean cut as the panels are on display.

Cheers,
Darren.


David Jenkins - 7/2/05 at 02:18 PM

I can't recommend a suitable blade, but I know where you're coming from with stainless!

Cutting oil always helps, and you must always cut - if the blade rubs then the stuff work-hardens & you're stuffed.

...but then again, you probably know this by now!

David


locoboy - 7/2/05 at 02:25 PM

Drill powered nibbler but check what thickness it will cut.


Snuggs - 7/2/05 at 03:06 PM

Darren,

If you need to cut a round hole I have 70mm and 25mm Q-Max cutters you can borrow.

Clive


DarrenW - 7/2/05 at 03:27 PM

Thanks clive. Im actually cutting out the horizontal panels in the engine bay that fit up against the bulkhead. (One side for battery to sit on, other side removeable for pedal access).
I pinched the stainless off my father. It was cheap (for nowt) and should look good when cleaned up. Next door neighbour has engineering business so was hoping to get them plasma cut - but hes gone on holiday. I tried my self but got problems. I increased blade life by 2 minutes using WD40 as a lubricant!!! Not really successful.

Ive got a clarke air powered nibbler thing so will try that next. it sounds like everyone has same problems with stainless.


Mix - 7/2/05 at 04:20 PM

If you have a compressor then I would suggest you used a cut off disc in a suitably guarded die grinder.
Make sure you are standing comfortably before you start and take your time.

Mick


Hellfire - 7/2/05 at 05:10 PM

Thing with Stainless is the chrome content. Chrome nackers any cutting tool... if you can get a Titanium Nitride coated blade (coloured gold) then go for this. Keep down the cutting speed, use light feed and apply a good quality cutting compound.

Stainless doesn't generally workharden, but being as you don't know what you have got it's best to err on the side of caution.

Good luck.


silex - 7/2/05 at 05:55 PM

If you can find a cobolt blade (If) that will see off the stainless steel no probs. They are more expensive than the titanium blades, but then they make titanium blades look like mild steel in comparison.


NS Dev - 7/2/05 at 05:59 PM

It's a big "if" (they are not easy to find!) but Cobalt kicks ass!! I have a set of Cobalt tipped drills (look like masonry drills) and they drill through HSS lathe tools no bother!! (when I had to improvise a special boring bar!)

Other than that, and air shear or nibbler should do the trick.


gazza285 - 7/2/05 at 08:28 PM

Better off with a grinder and a stainless 1mm disk in it. Clean cut edge with a flap disk after.


Jon Ison - 7/2/05 at 08:30 PM

that would be my advice too, i use 0.8mm discs for slitting stainless, like a knife thru butter........


907 - 7/2/05 at 09:59 PM

For hacksaw blades I'd recommend:-

MORSE Bi-Metal 8% Cobalt

and guess what, Made in USA

If they have a fault, it's that the white paint on them is about 1mm thick.

Still, I suppose it's so they don't go rusty while crossing the pond.

Paul G


paulf - 7/2/05 at 10:26 PM

If your jigsaw takes Bosch blades then it is possible to get some blades especially for stainless.I think that they are the cobalt type .I have used them at work in the past and get on reasonably well with them.You still need to make sure that you have a good supply of cutting oil and dont run to fast You may have to look around to get them and i would try a engineering supplier.

Paul


wilkingj - 7/2/05 at 10:39 PM

I had same problem with stainless even using the proper Bosch bits. In the end I used a 4.5" angle grinder with 1mm slotting disk, worked a treat, but be careful, its easy to make a mistake. Support the stainless on a bit of wood so it dont vibrate, and dont worry about cutting into the wood (use scrap wood).


Hellfire - 7/2/05 at 10:58 PM

The problem with Cobalt blades be it 5% or the 8% one's, they are more brittle. Therefore the cutting edge snaps off easier if pushed that little bit too hard. If your plate is thin and not securely held, chances are you will snap the blade once the edges have frittered off.

I agree the cobalt one's are better when used in the right application - you pay your money and take your chance.... personally I'd stick to standard blades with the TiN coating.


trextr7monkey - 7/2/05 at 11:29 PM

Hi Darren,
Gazza has the technique- we were given a thin disc from our local engineering works where they do lots of food industry machinery as well as the usual heavy truck stuff and the guy simply said"Have a go with this"
It did for us what an angle grinder would have done for prehistoric man- get one!!


chris.russell - 8/2/05 at 05:16 PM

Ditto with Gazza advice -grinding disc


David Jenkins - 8/2/05 at 05:35 PM

Ideally you should go for your initial thoughts... a plasma cutter would just slice through SS sheet as though it wasn't there...
Would it hurt too much to wait until whoever-it-is gets back from holiday?

David


DarrenW - 9/2/05 at 12:13 PM

Wow - thanks for all the advice. Bottom line seems to be that it is not easy for the DIYer so avoid it if possible.

my plan of attack is as follows;
1. Wait for neighbour to return and see what he says,
2. If that fails get a thin disc for my grinder,
3. failing that scrap the idea and make some ali panels!!! I might even use some chequer plate if i can get some thinnish stuff for nowt.

Thanks again,
Darren.