My garage floor is relatively new concrete after we had a new extension.
The problem now is that after a few days you get a build up of concrete dust on the floor which finds its way to cover everything else!!
What is the best way to stop this. Has anyone any sugesstions on a good sealer/hardner/paint??
Donor is in the garage at the moment and I want to get something done before I start on the chassis.
I reckon if you wash it all down (get rid of the dust) and don't use it for a few days so it dries. Then any QUALITY floor paint or floor tile
paint would suit as it's just to seal the ground - if you hit it with something hard, it'll go through however good it is
Whatever you use get it done before you spill oil on the concrete.
Mick
Two coats of good floor paint with a big roller . best thing i did easier to find things when you drop them as well.
When I sealed my shop floor it got real slippery when wet., Ice skating kinda slippery....
David.
quote:
Originally posted by white130d
When I sealed my shop floor it got real slippery when wet., Ice skating kinda slippery....
David.
I used wickes garage floor paint - BUT before that I used a concrete sealer (its with the garage floor paints) and is like water to paint on.
Allow this to dry fully before hitting it with the paint. If you don't, as soon as you put a car on it, it'll just peel up the paint where
the tyres sit.
Most messy !!!
Peter.
or get some old lino (or new if youre rich enough) and put that down.
Put down some concrete leveller first as well then you'll have a level floor to play with later on as well.....
I work for a company that makes non slip safety flooring (Non slip lino to you and me ! ) I just put a rubber version down in the garage before i
started the build and its fantastic !! ( And Free ) Stops the damp and easy on the knee's too, garage stinks of rubber now though - but i spose
some people get off on that ?
Only perk ive found of the job so far........
[Edited on 8/2/05 by Andybarbet]
[Edited on 8/2/05 by Andybarbet]
Before you use paint mix a weak solution of building PVA adhesive in water paint it on with broom -- two coats. This will seal the dust and make the paint stick better.
Use some of this stuff!
http://www.ecoknowlogy-intl.com/dps.asp
It is a concrete sealer that sets as hard as glass.
It also stops fungal growth in concrete which can be the cause of major respiratory problems or ill health in many people.
If you feel the need you can always paint over it at a later date as well.
Terry
Get an old carpet from the skips / tip. Makes the garage much warmer too!
Wont that be a fire hazard?
welding cleaning with solvents ect.....
I got a few carpet runners from my local 'crappy things' store....... and carpeted my entire garage for under £15!
My knees enjoyed the investment and I even use the hoover to clean up .... now there's a first
i hate having carpet in the garage.
it might be warmer, but i have a fleece
it might be easy on the knees, but i have a set of knee pads
it might be easy to vac, but i can sweep a flat floor
all i can see is that it traps every bit of muck/dust/oil/swarf until you least want it to come out, usually when you put something clean/smooth on it
when it instantly gets dusty and scratched. also, as one half is nylon, the other pure wool, i can only heat, grind and do hot things on the wool side
as the nylon one has set on fire a few times now
so a lesson to you all, have flat concrete that can be swept or mopped. at least then you won't end up cursing that lost bolt or piece of swarf
in your shin
and the rats will have nothing to chew either
who the f*ck would have a wall to wall carpeted double garage?
rant over, until next time
tom
anyone gone as far as a steel plate?
quote:
Originally posted by imull
anyone gone as far as a steel plate?
yeah, but a joy for welding... just earth to the floor
When we did scrapheap the landyacht space frame was welded up on a chequerplate floor. Welder earth was on the floor. The lad who did the welding
reported tingles when it started to rain.
for a general floor would steel get a bit slippy? Ive seen some big approx 2' sqaure rubber tiles before (industrial flooring??). They would be
ok. Also in factrories you can get anti-fatigue matting that is quite thick - good for knees (possibly not good for hot stuff).
Paint is probs the best DIY solution.
anyone know where to get that industrial type sealer from ? sounds ideal.
I personally like the painted concrete floor with wooden 'duck boards' infront of the bench/ machine tools. cheap to make and easy on the
back/feet
I always remember someone I used to work with saying something like this at knockoff one day. We'd been on a job involving a lot of leg bending
and at the clock he said his back legs were killing him.
sealer is available from B&Q.
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/product/product.jsp?CATID=183697&entryFlag=false&PRODID=31519&paintCatId=
Currently have a gallon of plastic floor coat (ultra heavy duty varnish i think) for floor tiles that some customer landed us with at work
If a flat steel plate is good enough for MSport to weld their cages and chassis then it will do for me...
You wouldnt get electrocuted as the juice doesnt flow through you to get to earth if my memory of school boy electrics is right
I wouldnt use rubber tiles for jig work as by its very nature there is deflection in the control surface...
By the way, the human body conducts electricity, this is why liking live plug sokets is a bad idea.
And whats more, 50volts accros the chest is enogh to stop your heart.
make sure the welding surface makes a better earth than you do, unless you have a death wish.
Garage floor paint, then checkerplate effect lyno 
[Edited on 5/3/05 by DrEagle]
quote:
And whats more, 50volts accros the chest is enogh to stop your heart.
I,m cheating (this is Chris's dad)
As with all things 20/20 hindsight is an advantage.
Therefore mix special extra expensive stuff in the concrete when laying it. I never learnt the name of it so I have used PVA adhesive. It's
fairly cheap and you don't need much of it.
The advice given on this thread so far sounds good to me. Unfortunately new/prospective builders are unlikely to see this thread until too late. I
expect most people log on to this forum after they have started building. Possibly if they log on before starting they might give up.
quote:
Originally posted by imull
snip
If a flat steel plate is good enough for MSport to weld their cages and chassis then it will do for me...
You wouldnt get electrocuted as the juice doesnt flow through you to get to earth if my memory of school boy electrics is right
.
quote:
Originally posted by clbarclay
I,m cheating (this is Chris's dad)
As with all things 20/20 hindsight is an advantage.
Therefore mix special extra expensive stuff in the concrete when laying it. I never learnt the name of it so I have used PVA adhesive. It's fairly cheap and you don't need much of it.
The advice given on this thread so far sounds good to me. Unfortunately new/prospective builders are unlikely to see this thread until too late. I expect most people log on to this forum after they have started building. Possibly if they log on before starting they might give up.
If you don't fancy wall to wall carpet get yourself a couple of strips 3'x6' for lying/kneeling on it really does make life a lot better. if you are doing body panels it means you alays have somewhere to put the bits down without too much worry that they will get scratched.
cheaper still the carpet out of your doner
The large square carpet samples are good, just go in to any good DIY shop and look interested in carpets.
Hi All
Costco are doing some rubberised floor covering mats it was in there the last time i was in. not good for the whole floor but the bits that you are
walking on arround the car i think it would be great.
Cheers
Brian