I bought myself a C20XE engine the other day, and started to strip it. When I wanted to remove the crank shaft pully, I found out thatI need to remove six screwes and one bolt in the centre. I believe I need a E18 torx socket for the bolt, but what type of bit do I need to remove the six screwes?

[Edited on 21/5/05 by ruudbeckers]

The centre bolt is an E20 and i think the outer ones are spline heads.

The 6 bolts are splined bolts cant remember what size my set is at work so cant check. The round off very easily so be carefull... The six bolts are for the aux belt pulley and the large bolt holds the cambelt pully.. The centre one is E20 torx.

Your best bet is to get hold of a set with hex, torx and splined bits.. Theyr cheap enough.

Tee hee.....................having done lots of these now I will say one thing..............have fun!!!!!

You need an E20 Britool Impact socket really, or equivalent.

That middle bolt is done up to 250 Nm and then angle tightened by a further 70 degrees, which is actually over 320Nm.

It makes sierra rear hub nuts feel like a doddle!!!

I have made a tool which bolts to the 6 crank pulley bolts (replaces the v belt pullet) and has a 4 ft reaction arm welded to it. With the engine in my grasser, the reaction arm jacks the whole car up when you undo the bolt!

Really the answer is an air impact wrench.

Enjoy!

Oh yes, to answer your first question, you need a spline bit to remove the 6 screws, but they are usually corroded and the splines are so fine they just rub away. I just undo the screws with a few taps of a cold chisel on each one, and then replace them with normal hex socket cap head bolts.

Could I also drill the screws out, or isn't that a good idea? Will I be able to get the rest of the bolts out, when the pully is removed?

I have experience, 3 out of 6 rounded....

If you round them: drill the heads with a 8 mm drill, just remove the heads. Then you can pull the pulley off and remove the remaining parts of the bolts.

Of in het nederlands:
Boor alleen de koppen af met een 8 mm boor, daarna kun je de pulley er af trekken, de andere helft van de boutjes kun je daarna eenvoudig verwijderen.

Paul

I have just removed the 2ix screwes. I all drilled them out. After that, you can just remove the rest of the srewes by hand.

The centerbolt came off quite easily. I just used an air impact wrenchand a m16 socket which fits quite good.


Thank you all for the replies!!

[Edited on 22/5/05 by ruudbeckers]

[Edited on 22/5/05 by ruudbeckers]

make sure you use a new bolt when you put it back together, and the correct torque procedure, which is 250nm plus a further 50-70 degrees angle tighten.

If it comes loose the engine is history as it clamps the drive for the cambelt sprocket and the oil pump!

NS Dev,

I was cleaning the bottom belt pulley and alternator pulley (nice new alloy undersized thing ) at the weekend and there is a keyway on the crank/pulley, obviously they specify 250mn + for a reason but i can't help but feeling its a bit OTT...

Ned.

ps can anyone tell me which size star socket you're meant to have for the head bolts, think i should invest in the right bits, yes i know the head is to the torque + 60 degrees or something..


[Edited on 23/5/05 by ned]

I can't tell you until tonight on the head bolts, I have a full torx set and just use the one that fits so I never know the size.

On the keyway thing, it's pointless!! It just lines the pulley up, if the bolt comes loose the keyway shears off with one crank rotation!!I have seen it happen! The torsional vibration just shears it clean off the the cambelt drive stops! There are a few on the westy forum that have suffered this fate! Also, if the bolt comes loose, if the cam pulley were somehow to hang on, the vibration load submitted to the oil pump inner gear from it's drive flats on the crankshaft splits the inner gear and wrecks the oil pump too...............do the bolt right!

from a search on migweb no-one seems to be conclusive as to whether its an e14 or e16 for the head bolts, one is very tight (only grips top of bolt head) the other is very loose, allegedly, if you could confirm either way it'd be appreciated!

cheers,

Ned.

will check tonight, never got into the garage last night!

furry muff, no rush!

Sorry for the delay Ned, just got into the garage (finally!) to check, its an E20 bit that you need.

I have a Britool impact one now, as my Draper one was destroyed by the efforts of undoing and tightening two crank bolts!

NS Dev,

I was asking after the headbolts, you've already told us what the crank bolt is further up this thread.

My haynes says e12 for the head bolts, teh migweb boys say e14 or e16!

thanks anyways..



ps tomorrow night I'll be sticking the timing disc on now i have taken delivery of some torq bits all ready for balancing.

[Edited on 26/5/05 by ned]

DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

after all that!!!!!!

well if you have got a bit set then there's no point letting you know now! (as I will have to get back into the garage again tonight to find out!!!!!)

Ignore Migweb!!!!!!!! It is 99% populated by anuses that don't know one end of a chavved up Nova from the other...........................sorry but that's my personal experience of mechanical expertise on there re. gearboxes!!!!!!

You'll soon find the bit that fits, and all that crap about one being tight and another loose is total shite, one fits, the other is too big!!!!

sorry, rant mode over!!

for vauxhall advice from people that know what they are doing (and to look at some interesting projects!) go to Valvers! clicky

um, still don't know the head star socket type as i bought a bit set, not a socket set double DOH!

not to worry, will have to invest in a full set at some point or pop along to a tool shop at the weekend with a headbolt in hand for reference

thanks again...

Ned.