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Lathe use
kipper - 22/7/06 at 05:47 PM

I have just bought myself a lathe to play with BUT I have no experience of using one.
Can anyone reccomend a good guide to get me started.
It came with two chucks and some tooling
so I think I can make a start.
Are there any dangers a complete numpty should avoid?
Also the coolant pump is broken, is there an easy repacement, such as an electric pump I could buy ?
Thanks in advance guys.
Kipper.


Nick Skidmore - 22/7/06 at 06:09 PM

The Amateur's Lathe by L.H.Sparey.

You can get them on Ebay but prices do vary.

It's an old book written originally in 1946 but has had a zillion re-prints so is written in an old style.

It's worth the effort / expense of getting a copy


DEAN C. - 22/7/06 at 06:12 PM

Hi Kipper,I'm not too bad on a lathe if you get stuck,I'm not a turner but I am a mechanical fitter originally,training on the same tech courses as the toolmakers etc.
I still use my colchester student quite often and I might be able to advise a bit.

Look at this site : Book@Lathes.co.uk

The "workshop practice series" books are good,have a look for "Lathework a complete course" and "Amatuer Lathe"

You deinately need the suds pump working and the latest replaceable tip tools are the ones to go for,Newark is a good source of cheap lathe gear.
Regards,Dean.


pathfinder - 22/7/06 at 06:12 PM

I find the old books are the best, the new books just aren’t as good for some reason try the book stalls at tool fairs.
Make sure you have got good tooling and don’t be afraid to play with the speeds and you wont go far wrong.
Easiest replacement for the pump is a ferry washing up bottle full of coolant!


meany - 22/7/06 at 06:22 PM

give these guys a ring.
they probably have a book or two.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/

i got my lathe off them....very helpful people....and heir prices arnt too bad.

they are also on ebay.


kipper - 22/7/06 at 06:48 PM

Thanks for all the leads guys.
Can't wait to get to it.
Regards Kipper.


Michael - 22/7/06 at 06:53 PM

I just ask my dad and he shows me how to do it. It does help that he was an Apprentice MOD Engineer - then lecturer at the same site for many years.

He has made many a things, including parts for the lathe.


907 - 22/7/06 at 07:02 PM

Hi Kipper,

I'm not keen on suds. Messy. You end up with a trail up the wall, across the roof,
and down the wall the other side.

I buy a gallon of cheapo 20/50 and use a squirty oil can for steel.
A hand sprayer full of paraffin for ally.
Motor bike chain lube for tapping,
and WD40 and a fire extinguisher for unobtainium.

Stand near the tail stock. I hate to see people standing right over the chuck.
Sooner or later something will fly out of the chuck, with the force of a sledge hammer.
Also no loose clothing, and protect your eyes.

A tool holder with tips is worth the investment. Ebay is a good source for these.
I find the triangular the most versatile as they get into corners well.

A good vernier is a must.


You will look back on this as the best thing you ever bought.

Have fun.

Paul G


John Bonnett - 22/7/06 at 07:18 PM

I bought a secondhand lathe some years ago and the coolant system was missing. I have never replaced it. However, I did fit a coolant system to my milling machine and I used the cheapest submersible fishpond pump I could find. That works really well.

My local college runs a model engineering course and I enrolled for a couple of terms really just to learn how to get reasonable results from the lathe. It was well worth doing.

I would recommend that you invest in tungsten carbide tipped tools and a green grit wheel to keep them sharp.

I have never done anything particularly fancy on the lathe but it is ideal for making spacers, sleeves and drilling holes down the centre of bar. In short, I would be lost without it.

John


SeaBass - 22/7/06 at 07:49 PM

Ensure you have a sprung chuck key - as you become more confident and at ease with the lathe the more dangerous it becomes... I've seen a chuck key flung across the workshop by innattentive students.

Cheers


PaulBuz - 22/7/06 at 08:29 PM

lots of good links here

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Links.htm


907 - 22/7/06 at 08:45 PM

quote:
Originally posted by SeaBass
I've seen a chuck key flung across the workshop by innattentive students.

Cheers




I've seen black board rubbers flung AT inattentive students.

O, the good old days


Paul G


fesycresy - 22/7/06 at 09:33 PM

I've had a chuck key hit the guard, suprising as I didn't generally use the guard. Very lucky.

Treat it with respect and don't get complacent.


kipper - 22/7/06 at 11:51 PM

wow I never thought there were so many of you guys using lathes, I will try to take all your advise on board and may thanks for your response.
Regards Kipper.


chris.russell - 23/7/06 at 08:24 AM

Are there any part time courses running at your local college or school where you can learn the basics (safety/operation/speeds and feeds/maintenance)?


johnjulie - 23/7/06 at 09:37 AM

What Lathe did you get???
Cheers John


quinnj3 - 23/7/06 at 11:23 AM

a chuck hit me once at tech as well lucky the lathe was on slow. Another thing which we were taught was not to use flourescent lighting in the area of a lathe as this flickers at around 50 cycles a sec. If the lathe is turning at 50 rpm then it gives the impression that it is stopped very dangerous but what is the chances of the lathe being in sync with the lighting?


kipper - 23/7/06 at 03:37 PM

The make of my lathe is a murad cadet ,It came with loads of tooling and three and four jaw chuck's.. It also has a set of gears with it .
The man I bought it from said it can do metric threading?????
I had to strip it to get it to the workshop so I will reasemble it tomorrow night after work.
Once again thanks for the leads and helpful words.
Regards Kipper.


Confused but excited. - 23/7/06 at 05:38 PM

Using flourescents, the chuck will appear stationary at any speed that is a multiple of fifty. Use an incandescent lamp to illuminate the work. Have fun.


brynhamlet - 23/7/06 at 07:09 PM

Forget the four jaw chuck, it's ny on impossible to get anything to centre properly

Wear eye protection, I've wear specs and have a pair ruined by flying bits. Specs are easy to replace!!!!!

Tie the chuck key on a short piece of chain to your wrist.

And have great fun with your lathe. Can I come and borrow the use of it if I need too??


wheelfelloff - 23/7/06 at 07:12 PM

Kipper Hi,

For the basics to start youoff have a look here:

http://www.americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_a_lathe.htm

Or the one I prefer here:

http://nsa.kpu-m.ac.jp/gijutu/kousaku/easyweb.easynet.co.uk/chrish/techindx.htm

Both cover the basic set up and use through to the more complex techniques. If you have any questions do a search here

http://groups.google.com/group/uk.rec.models.engineering/

or ask a question, there is always loads of help and they are used to new starters and certainly helped me a lot. Good luck I'm sure you will enjoy using it.

Best regards

Keith


MikeRJ - 25/7/06 at 11:14 PM

quote:
Originally posted by brynhamlet
Forget the four jaw chuck, it's ny on impossible to get anything to centre properly


Au contrair, it's the only type of chuck to use if you want really accurate centering!


David Jenkins - 26/7/06 at 07:23 AM

You beat me to it - the 3-jaw is fine for getting stuff near-enough central, but only the 4-jaw allows you to take stuff out and replace it in the jaws and STILL be concentric! With some fiddling about, of course.

The 4-jaw will also give the best grip on a work-piece, and will also hold oddly-shaped pieces.

There's a knack to setting up a 4-jaw but, once learnt, is so easy.

David


kipper - 26/7/06 at 07:38 AM

Once again thanks for the info offered,
Just shows the depth of talent on this locost builders site.
Made my first bush last night with a little over my shoulder help from a guy from the next unit at work. He is the handyman there, retired but just works p/t for pocket money, but worked all his boring working days chained to a lathe.
(his words).
What he don't know aint worth knowing.
What a shame that the knowlage that is stowed away in older peoples brains isn't being passed on to youngsters via apprenticeships........ Oh well rant over.
Many thanks guys.Kipper.


David Jenkins - 26/7/06 at 07:45 AM

Direct help and guidance from an expert is by far the best way to learn any manual skill, whether it's bench work, metal turning or welding. I learned more about welding on 2 one-day courses at a local agriculural college than I could ever have worked out from a book.

It's what apprenticeships used to be all about...

David


Grayo - 10/8/06 at 04:37 PM

I'd definitely go with SeaBass on this one.... The biggest danger is becoming complacent and leaving the chuck key in the chuck. When I use the lathe (which is nowhere near as frequently as it used to be!), I always make a check that the key is back in its holder before hitting the start button.

I would also say that the 3 jaw concentric chuck is nice and simple for beginners, but not near as flexible as a 4 jaw. You've just got to get the knack with a 4....

Bottom line with any machine tool is to respect it for the danger it can pose to you!


NS Dev - 11/8/06 at 07:12 AM

another one on the three jaw thing!!

Four jaw is ALWAYS used when accuracy is important, three jaw is fast but not that accurate.

I generally use my lathe for boring bits and bobs out and making spacers, bush tubes, top hats etc ect but couldn't do without it!!!

Its a Colchester Master 6.5" roundhead, anybody got a decent 4 jaw chuck for one???

One of the really useful little things I have used it for is welding up driveshaft adaptor flanges concentrically and square. I turn the two halves for a press fit, put one in the chuck, and push the other in with the tailstock.

I then clamp it in with a revolving centre in the tailstock, cover all the lathe bed etc up with a thick blanket, put the mig's earth strap onto the revolving bit of the revolving centre (so I don't weld the bearings up! ) then tack and weld round. Lathe won't go slow enough to rotate itself, so I turn it with one hand and weld with the other, using the toolpost as a wristrest.