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Broken helicoil
Chris.B - 16/9/06 at 05:33 PM

Does anyone have any advice for me regarding this problem?
When I was taking the cycle wings off today two helicoils in the Westfield alloy uprights came out partially, and one completely. These were for the 3 bolts that hold the cycle wing brackets. The bolts are M6 * 15mm. So I'm pondering my options. I don't have a helicoil insert tool & don't know how to insert new ones if I did. I guess an extract tool is to pry them out & pull with long nosed pliers.

So, should I ply out the two partially extracted helicoils & learn how to use a helicoil tool and then insert new ones; or tap the alloy upright to take an M8 bolt?

Any ideas / suggestions please?


ch1ll1 - 16/9/06 at 05:35 PM

you might be able to unscrew it
or try prying it out
fitting a new one isn't that bad !


Chris.B - 16/9/06 at 05:38 PM

Getting them out won't be a problem. There's 3 in the uprights. One came out totally with the bolt & two are partially hanging out - so a tug with pliers should sort it.
It's that I've no idea what's involved in putting new helicoils in? Is there a wizzo special tool?


ch1ll1 - 16/9/06 at 05:40 PM

yes a screw driver and a pair of wire cutters

screw the helicoils up tight,
insert them , when in the correct position the trim off
and fingers crossed


emsfactory - 16/9/06 at 05:43 PM

The coils I used had the wire bent across the center at one end. End on it looks like a circle with a line straight through the center.
The 'insertion tool' was a rod with a slot cut in the end to act on this bent bit.
You use this to screw the heli coil in, bent bit in first.
Easy peasy.


Chris.B - 16/9/06 at 05:43 PM

Ta - trip to buy helicoils on monday then


big_wasa - 16/9/06 at 05:44 PM

Pull it out with a pair of long nose pliers. You can buy the inserts loose (bags of 10) I got some this week for about £2.

the tool for fitting is very simple and you would proberly do it with the same long nose pliers. This time I would thread lock them in.

Give us a shout if you get stuck


rusty nuts - 16/9/06 at 05:44 PM

Helicoils can be replaced without a tool if you can file /grind the end of a bolt the same thread as the helicoil so that the insert has something to locate on . If you look at a new insert it has a piece at the inner end to "wind"it into the prepared hole. Once inserted you need to break this section off so that any bolt longer than the insert depth doesn't foul . Good hardware shops sometimes sell helicoil kits and inserts, sometimes known as Recoil kits as well


ch1ll1 - 16/9/06 at 06:01 PM

i use long nose pliers or a flat blade screw driver with a slot in it


02GF74 - 19/9/06 at 03:32 PM

here is a hand's on descirption of fitting helicoils.

(you need to go to the very top of the thread)


Schrodinger - 19/9/06 at 03:49 PM

quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
here is a hand's on descirption of fitting helicoils.

(you need to go to the very top of the thread)


Don't you need to go to the bottom?


Chris.B - 24/9/06 at 03:00 PM

Thanks for all the replies folks. I couldn't get helicoil inserts from my local motor factors so decided to tap the hole to M8. Bracket is back on & all is fine now
Cheers
Chris


iiyama - 1/12/06 at 07:43 PM

I have some M12 threads that I want to reduce to M10. Will helicoils do this?


Coose - 1/12/06 at 08:52 PM

No. A Helicoil requires a thread 1mm larger diameter than the actual thread.


iiyama - 1/12/06 at 10:35 PM

ok. SO is there anything that will do this??


DIY Si - 1/12/06 at 10:37 PM

Why do they need reducing?


iiyama - 2/12/06 at 02:21 PM

because i cant get the size bolts i need in m12.


DIY Si - 2/12/06 at 04:10 PM

What size do you need? Can you not use 8.8 rod?


flak monkey - 2/12/06 at 04:19 PM

I bet you can get bolts the right size if you look in the right place

What size do you need?

David


iiyama - 2/12/06 at 04:28 PM

Probably can in steel, but I want titanium!!!

However I've come up with a cunning plan!


DIY Si - 2/12/06 at 04:32 PM

Titanium? What the heck are holding together?


iiyama - 2/12/06 at 04:41 PM

The Ti Im using is equivalent to 8.8 grade steel bolts.

Evertything thats stressed has Ti bolts, everything that isnt has Aluminium bolts. Weight mah boy....or lack of it! Ti is 40% less then steel. Aluminium is about 60% less.

Saved over 3/4kgs alone on the diff...) so over all should save about 2kgs or more.

No its not cheap, however its a lot cheaper then getting lots more grunt from the engine! Also has the benifits that it dosent corrode like steel so it looks pretty!!


DIY Si - 2/12/06 at 04:44 PM

Can you use stainless for it? May weigh a gnats ar$e hair more, but will look pretty!


iiyama - 2/12/06 at 04:48 PM

Cant use stainless in any stressed areas as it isnt that strong. Think mild steel is stronger although I may be wrong.


DIY Si - 2/12/06 at 04:54 PM

Should have asked what it's for really!


iiyama - 2/12/06 at 04:59 PM

diff mounting.


02GF74 - 4/12/06 at 11:28 AM

quote:
Originally posted by iiyama
The Ti Im using is equivalent to 8.8 grade steel bolts.

Evertything thats stressed has Ti bolts, everything that isnt has Aluminium bolts. Weight mah boy....or lack of it! Ti is 40% less then steel. Aluminium is about 60% less.

Saved over 3/4kgs alone on the diff...) so over all should save about 2kgs or more.

No its not cheap, however its a lot cheaper then getting lots more grunt from the engine! Also has the benifits that it dosent corrode like steel so it looks pretty!!


2 kgs how is is it going to cost you?

you can get same effect by eating less pies, removing the passenger seat or puttin in 1/2 a gallon of fuel.


Assuming your car is really light, say 400 kg which is unlikley, you are talking of 0.5 % - your 0-60 times will tumble.


iiyama - 4/12/06 at 11:44 AM

and if I do all three plus Ti then thats a BIG saving!!!!