Is there any reason for using a bullet crimp instead of a spade crimp and vice versa? Seem to have a mixture on my tiger loom
Also whats the best method of joining two wires? male/female crimp or solder and shrink wrap?
Solder and heatshrink if it's supposed to be permanent. Shrinkwrap is good for leftovers in the fridge.
yea, was just making my sandwiches for tomorrow... Heat shrink
IMHO Bullets are just old fashioned!
ie they were used on old cars and motorbikes before spade terminals were invented.
That said they are obviously used on modern bikes too (not sure about cars)
They are a little more compact than spades but are rarely used on "fixed" connectors such as a horn or a switch, so are less universal than
spades.
I am sure there is more to add to this??
Yea I have been tining the ends before crimping them and then heatshrink...
I've been doing the same. Put it this way, they are not going to fall apart. You can be sure if there is an electrical fault, its bound to be a
connection that is on a guage or switch.
Calvin is correct about soldered joints becoming brittle. In aviation all joints are made using (very expensive) butt crimps. Probably a little over the top on a kit build though, where failure is less likely to be catastrophic!
To make reliable crimped joints you really need to spend £40-50 on a decent ratchet crimp tool - forget the 'bargain' jobbies for £20. You
also need to make sure that you are using the correct gauge of wire for the crimp and good quality connectors or you will either damage the wire or
make a loose joint. Soldering is the second best way imo and, as already mentioned, can make a brittle joint.
The insulated crimp connectors you buy in Halfrauds etc are not really up to the job and it is best to get some from a decent manufacturer like AMP.
RS or Farnell have a few quality alternatives. The best ones have two crimp sites - one for the wire and the other as a strain relief securing the
insulation.
[Edited on 16-1-07 by RazMan]
I have been told about the "brittle joint" result of soldering many times, and no doubt in planes lifed for 20 yrs it is an issue, but I have soldered every joint in all the various car looms I have made over the years, and have only ever had one electrical failure, and that was on my grasser with its solid mounted vauxhall XE engine, where it disintegrated an aftermarket fuseholder due to the vibration........................none of the soldered joints ever caused a problem!
On of my customers showed me a lap joint, in their opinion the best joint, but found it a bit awkward on cars.
So I push the two bare ends into each other and twist, tin the iron, then solder over. Been doing it like that for years with no failures.
Bullet connectors start to stretch and go a bit loose if they're undone and done up a few times, so if you're likely to be unplugging it with any kind of frequency then use a spade.
^^^^ as the nun says. this is what I do. you need to have good mechanical contact of the wires and the solder is for electrical contact.
I splay the end of each wires, then push them together so the strands intermingle, then twist. that gives some mechanical strength. Apply flux then
solder finishes the job.
bullets v spades - can't see there is that much in it - I've had spades loosen so not sure that argument is valid (a nip up using pliers
sorts that out).
.... but spades are generally easier to find in the shops.
Bullets and solder most of the time, spades soldered some of the time .
But IMO coloured crimp spades look shite , cheap and nasty can really bring a build quality down.
Crimps say 'KIT CAR'
quote:
Originally posted by Surrey Dave
But IMO coloured crimp spades look shite , cheap and nasty can really bring a build quality down.
Crimps say 'KIT CAR'