Any other stuff I should try in order to remove a stud from a cast iron head?

Got one left to do, on the exhaust side and the threads on it are a bit worn.

I have done the penetrating oil thing, put on two 5/16 UNF nuts, done up tightly with a spring washer in between and heated the head with a blow torch but no joy.

Next on the attack plan is to heat the head up in an oven and do the blow torch thing again and if that fails, Mr Weldeer coomes out of hiding to weld a nut on as the threads are beginning to go.

(at lunchtime I'll be buying the UNC taps for the inevitable ).

Secondly is there any advantage in putting in M8 studs? (I've got enough UNF nuts) and going to stainless steel studs? I'm sure I can get the bolts cheapish and then put the UNC thread on myselft but
a) how much harder will putting the thread on be compared to steel?
b) will the cast iron and stainless steel react?
b) with the heat cycling on the eaxhaust side weaken the stud?


So that should it ever need to be removed, it is more likely to snap than a
steel one?

heat the stud up till it glows and let it cool before drenching in WD40 it should then come out. Don't just cut it off, persevere it WILL come out, just keep heating it up and trying again.

a)tapping threads in iron is easy, better than steel
b)no, I only use stainless bolts on exhausts
c)no

You could go the other way & use an electronics/plumbing freezer spray on the stud - maybe even in combination with heating the head.

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Originally posted by macnab
a)tapping threads in iron is easy, better than steel

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Might be stating the obvious here but have you considered the Easy-out (sp?) left hand thread extractor tool thingy?

btw - using copper plated nuts on exhaust studs save a lot of this type of aggro

[Edited on 26-1-07 by RazMan]

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Originally posted by RazMan
Might be stating the obvious here but have you considered the Easy-out (sp?) left hand thread extractor tool thingy?

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My dad told me about something on an aviation forum, a lot of Aircraft engineers use Tizer, the drink, for stud removal, they reckon there's nothing better

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Originally posted by 02GF74

quote:

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Originally posted by macnab
a)tapping threads in iron is easy, better than steel

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re: a), I was referring to put a thread on the stainless steel bolts (cut off the heads to make studs). From cutting/drilling stainless sheet, it is a damn side harder than mild steel sheet.

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ta for that idea ^^^ but I'll reserve any drilling once it has snapped so drill most of it out then; reduces rtisk of drills snapping.

oh, another thinkg I forgot to mention is that the boss is drilled right through so I can access the other end of the stud. I have scraped around it and put some fluid on.

It seems the plan of heat/blow lamp -> weld nut is the way to go; then drill out once it has snapped.

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Originally posted by RazMan
Might be stating the obvious here but have you considered the Easy-out (sp?) left hand thread extractor tool thingy?

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They should be called "EasySnap"!

If all else fails, take it to a machine shop - they may be able to spark-erode it out for a small amount of cash.

David

TCT tipped masonary drills are the business for getting studs out.

You can get them in 0.5 mm increments so getting one close to the tapping size for 5/16 unf shouldn't be too hard.

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Originally posted by Alan_Thomas

quote:

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Originally posted by RazMan
Might be stating the obvious here but have you considered the Easy-out (sp?) left hand thread extractor tool thingy?

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I have a problem at the moment because I used an easyout which then broke and now the piece of broken easyout is preventing me doing what I should have done in the first place, namely drill it out and use a helicoil if required. The 'Easyout' seems to be very badly named!

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If famale section is cast iron or steel then heat with Oxy/acet welding or cutting torch evenly around stud until item (but not stud) is cherry red then fit mole grips to stud and undo.
JD.

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Originally posted by jollygreengiant
If female section is cast iron or steel then heat with Oxy/acet welding or cutting torch evenly around stud until item (but not stud) is cherry red then fit mole grips to stud and undo.
JD.

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Don't shout at me if I'm stating the obvious but.....

Have you used stud extractors? I have used them to good effect on stubborn studs in pug aluminium heads.

Allan

stud extractors! i.e easy outs...

They should come with this written on them -

'WARNING!! 99% Chance off just Snapping and will require a Diamond drill to remove!'

Useless bloody things.
Rescued attachment easyout.gif

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Originally posted by awinter

Have you used stud extractors? I have used them to good effect on stubborn studs in pug aluminium heads.

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Easy-outs are not realy meant to be used to remove siezed studs, just studs that are broken off flush or below the surface. If you have a broken drill or easy-out on the stud, it may be best to have it spark eroded by someone with the right kit, works like magic!
ATB
Phil

Or.... get some nice new drill bits and get drilling... you can drill through easy-outs with a bit of effort...

Mains drills spin a bit too fast- if you've got a variable speed drill then its a bit better but it's a pain keeping the speed stable... Portable battery drills turn a bit slower but with a good amount of torque. I hardwired 12v up the chuff of a 9.6v drill and even with rather old bits managed to drill out 10mm of a 5-6mm easyout in about 30 minutes...

Heres a little known secret...

If you are a competent welder, go to your local welding supplies shop and buy a EutecTrode Xuper 680 S rod or similar, (these are for joining disimilar metals and high carbon steels), and, another bolt or piece of steel of a similar diameter to that of the stuck stud.

Very carefully weld the bolt/steel to the stud at a 45 degree angle and let it cool completely (you can apply oil at this stage , it may help). You can put it under a tap to cool it if you wish.

Once cool, get a small hammer or mallet and gently tap the bolt/steel back and forth and keep applying oil/WD40 etc, you should find that the stud will become loose and undo. If you break off the welded on piece, then start again.

What happens is that the act of welding directly to the stud heats it up quicker that that of the surrounding material (you cannot do this with a gas flame, and trying to unscrew a redhot stud normally results in a sheared off stud which is what you don't want.) and 'shocks' it, causing the corrosion to loosen, letting it cool completely allows everything to return to normal and then the stud is 'free' and you now have a lever to remove it with.
Works every time. I have removed studs that have sheared off below the level of the block before this way with some very careful welding.

The reason for using a special rod is that normal mild steel would not produce a weld that is strong enough, 680 rods are very easy to weld with , but quite expensive....


good luck!

[Edited on 26/1/07 by farmer.palmer]

Use a proper stud remover . Got a klane one I use in a 1/2 air wrench . Works a bit like a chuck but the more torque applied the better it grips . If stud breaks just drill and retap . Not all stud extractors are easiouts the best place for those are in the bin

Heat is the way to go, it dissolves the rust
Get the stud at least cherry red, let it cool then use an extractor that fits in a socket wrench. Try tightening slightly, then anti clockwise in small movements. With the right amount of heat it will come loose. A few taps on the end of the stud may help free it too!
Cheers J&J

Cast iron will be fine locally heated as long as you dont let it cool too quickly.

As others have said a bit of heat should get it out, if not drill it. Drilling studs out isnt particularly difficult, the worst bit is making sure you hit the centre of the old stud.

David

Contrary to what I said I'd do, I wound on another nut (3 in all) and put a blow torch onto the manifold. Then using a mallet, smacket the spanner and it started to move.

Using the two handed technique( TM) with spanner and socket, the stud finally came out. This all happened on Friday evening so a good start to the weekend.
(fastener place was closed so didn;t get the stainless steel bolts )

Here is the stud out (The cylinder head in now in BRG).

stud removed

An the stud showing the worn thread in the middle.

stud worn thread