[Edited on 30/1/07 by 02GF74]
I intend to get some M8 A2 stainless steel bolts, chop the heads off then run a 5/16 UNC die so make my own studs (metric ends).
If necessary, I can file down the shank to 7.9 mm to be right size for the die.
I have never put a thread onto stainless before so will it be easy to do?
And what is the best way to hold the headless bolt (two nuts and spring washer) so it stays put without damaging the threads?
How long is the plain length of shank on the bolt? How much thread do you want to put on there? Could you clamp the centre of the bolt that will
remain plain?
File an 8mm shaft down to 7.9mm? That's 50um or 2 thou per side. Do you need to bother? I have cut A2 stainless bolts with a hacksaw. It
isn't too hard.
Edit: Buy more bolts than you need incase you make a mess of the first few
[Edited on 30-1-2007 by smart51]
1) No it won't be easy. I found stainless tends to tear. Much harder to do than mild steel.
2) Thread it before you cut the head off. Use a longer bolt if you have to.
Are these studs intended for an engine block? If so, you should be aware that stainless has a nasty tendency to 'pick up' or catch when
you're threading them into other materials, and can be an absolute bar steward to get back out again. 95% of the time this won't happen -
but when it does...
Not trying to be a prophet of doom, but you need to be aware.
David
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.
2) Thread it before you cut the head off. Use a longer bolt if you have to.
I will clean up the threads with a
tap and use copper slip. quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
stainless has a nasty tendency to 'pick up' or catch when you're threading them into other materials, and can be an absolute bar steward to get back out again. 95% of the time this won't happen - but when it does...
I'll
stick to mild steel thanks...
Stainless has a tendancy to pick up on any metal when threading or cutting... it's due to the chrome in it.
Lots of manufactured Stainless threads are not cut, they are rolled to help strength.
I would avoid re-threading your own bolts (missus!!!) sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
I will clean up the threads with a tap and use copper slip.
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
I would avoid re-threading your own bolts (missus!!!) sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.
...
and I'll be metric too i used stainless studding for me exhaust manifold onto the alloy head with no probs at all. id think a tensile bolt will be no easier to thread than stainless, youll need a hss die though, a carbon steel one wont last 2 minutes.
When I was doing my engineering apprenticeship nearly 40 years ago one of the tools we had to make was a thread clamp.
What this consisted of was two pieces of mild steel clamped together a hole drilled and tapped down between them and then file the faces down so that
they clamp the thread in place. Unfortunately being as old as this it was imperial thread not metric, so I need to make a new one.
nice idea .... a locost version would be to saw a cut down one side of a nut or two and stick in a vice?
[Edited on 30/1/07 by 02GF74]
I'm with Suparuss, a length of s/s studding from Screwfix is dirt cheap.
One thing puzzles me though.
If you want a stud with a plain bit in the middle, and are prepared to buy the bolts, why not just buy studs?
Paul G
SORRY. Just read your first post again.
Mixed threads.
I DO FEEL A FOOL
[Edited on 30/1/07 by 907]
quote:
Originally posted by 907
One thing puzzles me though.
If you want a stud with a plain bit in the middle, and are prepared to buy the bolts, why not just buy studs?
