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Tonights Scores: Vice 0 - Wheel Studs 1 : Wheel Studs 0 - 'Large Adjuster' 4
Duncan_P - 7/3/07 at 08:25 PM

Tonight I thought that i would have a go at putting my rear wheel studs back in the 'proper' way and pushing them back in. So after the normal tricks of freezing the studs etc they went into the vice to get pushed back in......suffice to say this did not go well and i now have a broken vice

At this point i was more than a little annoyed, so out came the 'Large Adjuster' and four of the wheel studs gott put back in before i moved onto a quieter job in the interests of neighbourhood harmony.

......bit of a pointless post really just venting a little frustration.

How the hell im going to get the front studs out now without buying a new vice i dont know

[Edited on 7/3/07 by Duncan_P]

nib1980 - 7/3/07 at 08:29 PM

explosive charges

flak monkey - 7/3/07 at 08:53 PM

Whacking studs in and out with a club hammer is the easiest thing to do if you dont have a press.

Just dont whack too hard or you will crack the hub.

jollygreengiant - 7/3/07 at 09:15 PM

Locost tool for fitting wheel studs :- push stud into hole fit a thick washer/spacer over stud, turn wheel nut round the wrong way, with some grease between it and spacer, (flat side to spacer) tighten nut until fitted. Repeat for each stud. JD.

No noise no swearing.

Duncan_P - 7/3/07 at 09:42 PM

Thanks for the tip

I did think about that but wasnt sure how well it would work.

Any tips for removing them? Front drive flange is still attached to the uprights and i would prefer not to take it off due to the 300NM hub nut. Unfortunately this rules hammering out, I have tried my ball joint remover but that really isnt up to the job.

big_wasa - 7/3/07 at 10:50 PM

best tooll I found for this job was a balljoint spliter. Pressed them in and out piece of pee

02GF74 - 8/3/07 at 08:43 AM

think you should have asked or searched on here and would have saved your vice.

believe it or not, a vice isn't meant to be used as a press but for gently gripping work pieces to allow you to work on them.

Having said that, I ab-use it in just that way

I did studs for rear and went in easily - up to the last 5 mm or so. What I found is that they did not go on squarely so my alloy wolud just about fit if you twist it cunningly. Puitting the nuts on and pulling them through seemed to have aligned them better.

SO IMO the technique is to use a vie to get them started without hanging off a scaffolding pole on the vice then use a wheel and the wheel nuts to finish.

britishtrident - 8/3/07 at 09:22 AM

quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Locost tool for fitting wheel studs :- push stud into hole fit a thick washer/spacer over stud, turn wheel nut round the wrong way, with some grease between it and spacer, (flat side to spacer) tighten nut until fitted. Repeat for each stud. JD.

No noise no swearing.


Yes the only way to do it, this way it will pull in straight and be much less likely to coggle & snag on the way in.
Also if it does snag because the stud is in tension rather than compression it won't incease diameter under the insertion force.

blueshift - 8/3/07 at 01:25 PM

crazy idea, but if you absolutely have to get the studs out while the hub is on the car, without buying fancy equipment..

if you have some single-cylinder brake calipers, like sierra rears, they have a piston with a kind of wrap-around claw.

you might be able to hook this round the back of the brake disc and use the piston + brake pedal to press the stud out.

you'd have to have enough play in your brake flexy or extend it. or you could possibly do it with the piston on the back of the hub and make up a studly enough u-shaped thinger to hook under the prongs of the caliper and go over the stud.

almost certainly impractical but I thought I'd share.