i tried to use mine to get a sprocket nut off today, it failed miserably, even though i had 2 compressors blowing it to keep it at full chat.

Are the electric ones usually more effective? I could regain a lot of space if i sold the 2 compresors etc.

Haven't used mine for anything really tight yet but 90 psi and large bore hose should sort most stuff out. Don't think that curly hose stuff would be man enough though.

You decided to keep your motor now then?

Regards

Rich

I have only used a 110v one and it had plenty of power, too much actually for what I was using it for as when the nut's tightened up, the gun did not slow down like an air one does giving an indication of tightness, it just kept on going pulling the bolt through the truck rear door. Btw I was fitting the doors.
Saying that though there are some pretty dam powerful windy guns out there if you don't mind paying a bit for them.
hth.
john

Both are capable of making enough power to break anything on a car. Generally the air powered guns are more powerful for the money, but you need the air to run them.
For work I have this little guy:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ir2135ti.html
Ive yet to see an automotive bolt stop it. I have snapped frozen 9/16" wheel studs with it even. Light weight too. Little over the top for home use maybe . BTW if you are using those damned curly hoses pick up some good 3/8" line. Air tools need flow as well as pressure to work right.
Cheers.

I think air ones must be more powerful.

I've got a Dewalt 3/4" mains powered one and its total and utter crap.

http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DW294/

Won't even undo a wheel nut which a breaker bar does with minimal effort.

The only thing I use mine for is to rattle the heck out of a bolt but I never expect it to undo it.

I may just have a bad one but its always been like this. Unless I'm using it wrong......

[Edited on 22/4/07 by the_fbi]

^^^ that sounds like mine, a clark one and it cant undo wheel nuts.

I have a Y piece at the tool end and two hoses (edit, proper 3/8ths hoses too)supplying it, from two seperate 1.5hp compressors - surely air enough, so id blame the tool (or the bugger who tightened it ).

Shame that, id heard reports of the electric ones being quite good, and i cant immobilise the sprocket enough to use real force on it. Ive even had the benzomatic blowtorch on it

Is there a penetrating oil better than wd40?

[Edited on 22/4/07 by JoelP]

Hi have you tried putting some extra oil into the gun before connecting it,
gary

I also have a very cheap one for home use and it will pull wheelnuts off.... but thats about it. Only rated at 250ft/lbs I think. Sounds like you need a bigger gun. Look for around 600ft/lbs of force (or more) in the reverse direction. For home use a cheap one will be fine as you wont use it enough to ruin your hands.

The best penetration oil I've seen (other than KY of course ) is "Moovit" by "Lloyd's laboratories".
http://lloydslab.ca/frameset.html
Not sure if it's available over there though.

I bought an 18v DeWalt one - it is superb, provides 440Nm (324 ft-lbs) of torque, easily undoes everything I have ever used it on, particularly very tight wheelnuts.
My cheapo Clarke air powered one couldn't undo anything

[Edited on 22/4/07 by JohnN]

quote:

---

Originally posted by JohnN
I bought an 18v DeWalt one - it is superb, provides 440Nm (324 ft-lbs) of torque, easily undoes everything I have ever used it on, particularly very tight wheelnuts.
My cheapo Clarke air powered one couldn't undo anything

[Edited on 22/4/07 by JohnN]

---

that must make you feel sick, i know the feeling when high hopes of a tool are dashed

325ft/lbs should be plenty to knock a wheel nut off. Assuming its not frozen,rusted, or torqued to 200ft/lbs+.
Sounds like maybe your anvil or hammer in the gun is broken.

just oiled it but no joy, tried for about 5 mins, just bangs and jumps. I'll stick a post in the wanted section and see if anyone local has a bigger gun!

Cheers anyway fellas.

plus gas (or is it pro gas) is a good penetrating oil.

have you tried rocking to from forward to backward?

When i had the caliper removed from my hub it took it to my local tyre place. they used the best gun for five minutes going backwards and forwards. Eventually i saw it starting to move. I was convinced it must be the head rounding we'd been going at it that much. it wasn't, just a stuborn 20 year bolt and locking compound.