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Changing HF start Tig to Arc
the_fbi - 19/10/07 at 08:23 PM

Since my 3 year warrantied Silverline Inverter Arc decided to die after only a month and I got a full credit rather than replacement, I managed to pick up a rather good deal on an HF start Inverter Tig ( http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130162950796 )

The only problem is it doesn't have an "arc" welding mode, and given that its HF start rather than scratch start this is an issue.

For now, I've just connected up the trigger wires (2 pin screw on DIN type) and "strike up" using the switch which actually works quite well although needs 2 hands to operate (1 for switch and 1 to hold the electrode).

Clearly the downside this is that the solenoid for the Tig keeps being triggered and its not connected up and doing nothing, so it simply adding wear/tear to a part which isn't being used currently.

So I'm simply planning on adding 2 switches. 1 in the feed to the solenoid, which disables it manually for when the arc is being used, and 1 to switch it into arc mode so its always ready to strike up.

Anybody see a problem with this (keeping the inverter on all the time its in arc mode)? Would I be better off putting a switch on the arc electrode holder to only switch it on when needed?

My other issue, is that for some reason the slag on non stainless rods is being a real arse to get off with this machine. Tried under and over amping and its still sticking like the proverbial to a blanket, any ideas?

Clearly at some point I'll get myself a bottle and some tungstens and start using it properly, but for now its a nice arc which is all I need, just need to make it a bit more user friendly.

Thoughts appreciated.

ta
Chris

907 - 20/10/07 at 06:37 AM

WOW! What a bargain Chris.

My advice is, get yourself down to BOC and use the thing as it should be used.

TIG is soooooo versatile that unless you are welding RSJ's together why bother with MMA?



Atb
Paul G

[Edited on 21/10/07 by 907]

Mansfield - 20/10/07 at 08:48 AM

Sorry for the hijack, but that looks a REAL bargain - even the BIN prices look pretty good.

Is that as good as a 151TE (similar money) for doing a chassis + bones?

Sorry again, but I am sure there will be others wanting to ask the same question.

David

the_fbi - 20/10/07 at 09:01 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Mansfield
Sorry for the hijack, but that looks a REAL bargain - even the BIN prices look pretty good.

If you look back through his completed auctions, they've gone as low as £110.

Arrived in less than 5 working days too, which is actually better service than I'm getting within the UK currently

Alex B - 20/10/07 at 12:19 PM

They have a Chinese look about them....not that it is a bad thing. Unless you are skilled with Tig I would think the Mig a better bet for a Seven chassis if you must choose the one welder.

Alex

Mansfield - 20/10/07 at 11:10 PM

I am getting better with MIG, but I still think like an oxy-acetelyne welder.

This bargain TIG might be the answer for me.

5 days, no wonder his feedback is perfect!

How thick can one weld with this machine assuming a suitable skill level?

v8kid - 21/10/07 at 08:13 AM

The only snag I can see is the machine appears to be DC only which is not so good for welding aluminium. Is there an AC option on it I can't see?

My preference for steel is MIG just 'cos its so much faster but this machine still looks great value fun to play with making good looking welds in steel.

Peteff - 21/10/07 at 09:20 AM

If you disable the HF start will it automatically default to scratch start to start your arc rods. Is there a wire you can just pull off to try it before you alter anything permanently just in case it breaks?

the_fbi - 21/10/07 at 10:17 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
If you disable the HF start will it automatically default to scratch start to start your arc rods. Is there a wire you can just pull off to try it before you alter anything permanently just in case it breaks?

I actually quite like HF starting an ARC though. Some of the time I just have pieces insecurely positioned together and striking up an arc would move them, with HF it just fires up without contact

I'm going to email them and see if they can sell me a spare switch lead, as its separate from the torch assembly, just inside the same outer wrapping.

the_fbi - 21/10/07 at 10:20 AM

quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
The only snag I can see is the machine appears to be DC only which is not so good for welding aluminium. Is there an AC option on it I can't see?

I didn't think you could weld aluminium at all with DC, let alone being "not so good".

If you can find an AC Tig for under £400 delivered you're doing well.

Peteff - 21/10/07 at 10:56 AM

You can buy two pin or other amphenol connectors from welding suppliers and make your own switch lead. The switch with my torch slides off the handle if you unscrew it from the end of the cable.

v8kid - 22/10/07 at 06:32 AM

Ah! Shows the power of misinformation on the web I read on one of the welding websites that with DC welding making the electrode positive would clean the surface of oxide and I made the jump to assuming that meant it was OK for welding aluminium - apart from the heat build up in the electrode - hence the "not so good"