Fitting cycle wings is diffisult when there's a headless bolt stuck in the hub. I've not managed to get it out by cutting a slot in it and
trying to turn it with a screwdrive in a mole grip and a big lever - does anybody have any better ideas, or know a mobile stud remover near Stamford,
before I take the front suspension apart?
THanks
can you weld an old socket onto it?
If its rusted in then it could be tricky, BUT, try the usual old trick of a dot/centre punch, applied slightly "inwards" at a tangent to the
undoing direction, so as to tap it undone at the same time as digging in a bit, but inwards so it doesn't swage it into the surrounding upright
too much.
Always works if the sheared bit is loose, but in an upright it probably sheared due to rust, in which case drill out and retap is the only real
answer.
WD-40 sprayed on over a few days should ease it up a bit.
Weld a nut on to the remains of the bolt, weld through the nut . The heat from welding and being able to apply torque should shift it. If the weld breaks then weld on another. . Have used this method loads with good results .Welding a socket on is a waste IMHO. If welding fails then drill and tap
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Weld a nut on to the remains of the bolt, weld through the nut . The heat from welding and being able to apply torque should shift it. If the weld breaks then weld on another. . Have used this method loads with good results .Welding a socket on is a waste IMHO. If welding fails then drill and tap
I've been using the weld a nut on method for years, you have to resourceful as an agric engineer 
I've found that sometimes it's easier to weld a washer on first, mabye a touch smaller diameter than the stud you're taking out &
then welding a nut to the top of that. This makes it easier to avoid welding the stud to the surrounding metalwork while getting a good weld.
I've drilled a hole right through the centre of the stud if it's something big so the weld can get down inside & help to shrink it while
getting more hold.
quote:
I've found that sometimes it's easier to weld a washer on first, mabye a touch smaller diameter than the stud you're taking out & then welding a nut to the top of that. This makes it easier to avoid welding the stud to the surrounding metalwork while getting a good weld.
Good idea!
hillbillyracer - 29/6/08 at 01:44 PMI learned the hard way! If you weld the stud to the upright you may need a new one which is a bugger but not beyond doing by any means. If you weld it to the gearbox which also acts as the chassis on a tractor then it's a bit more serious!