Sorry to hear it didnt work ok for you!
Or is powdercoat better still?
see posts by avoneer
I have just ordered some Por-15 anti rust stuff and some chassis black to coat....
Its simply not possible for me to get the chassis sandblasted and powdercoated.
IMHO, unless you spend hours prepping the chassis for por15, sandblast and decent powdercoat would be my weapon of choice
During my MGB rebuild, the shelf where the master cylinders sit, is particularly rust prone, I shot blasted the area, Marine Cleaned it, then
POR15'd it, I though that would be the ultimate protection.
Wrong, when it was dry I was able to pick at a corner, and pulled the paint off in one sheet like a cellophane wrapper.
Just my experience, cant think of any better prep than the surface shot blasting leaves for paint adhesion.
If you want the remains of my marine clean and metal ready let me know...
[Edited on 19/8/08 by r1_pete]
Most of the reviews for Por-15 suggest its really good...perhaps not worth quite that much, but good none the less...
Sorry to hear it didnt work ok for you!
Powdercoat may not be answer.... a lot of my 2002 Westfield chassis has shed it like a lizard over the past 5 years, it's crap. Then again, my
2000 chassis still has it all on. Clearly quality varies....
All I'd say is that I've done all the modifications/engine changes to the 2002 chassis, removing the powdercoat on the 2000 to get it clean
and weldable is a LOT of hard work.
So, yep, something to bear in mind if you're continually modifying the thing.
Best paint I've found, by the way, is 2-pack epoxy marine.
Can't find any 2-pack epoxy marine... is 2-pack epoxy floor paint the same?
POR15 doesn't stick to clean metal very well at all IME. Like Hammerite, it's deigned to stick to rusty surfaces. You have to use the
"Metal Ready" primer for clean, rust free metal, and even then it doesn't seem to stick particularly well.
Clearly the answer is to leave the bare chassis outside for a couple of weeks before painting 
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
POR15 doesn't stick to clean metal very well at all IME. Like Hammerite, it's deigned to stick to rusty surfaces. You have to use the "Metal Ready" primer for clean, rust free metal, and even then it doesn't seem to stick particularly well.
Clearly the answer is to leave the bare chassis outside for a couple of weeks before painting
Epoxy chassis paint
LINK .
They are just up the road from me and if the weather is good next week (hols) I will try some on mine.
Dont brush it on! see Nitram's post but it does look like it will stick like
sh1t to a blanket
Powder coating really does come down to the prep and attention to detail to get it stick long term.
I degreased and metal readied my chassis and painted with POR 15. In places the paint bubbled and lifted. In others it seems fine. I still have to strip and repaint some of it. I might use the remaining tin of POR15 or I might use something else. I heard from somone on here that even 1 drip of sweat ruins its adhesion to the metal. I'm not bowled over by it but I don't know anything obviously better.
If you prep the chassis and get someone to spray POR on, it will be better than powdercoat.
The parts of my chassis that were POR'd were hard to even scratch the surface with a screwdriver.
Never had any luck painting it on with a brush.
Powdercoat is so much less hassle if you find a one stop shop.
Pat...