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What dials can I use on an R1
Rob WM - 30/10/08 at 09:19 AM

Morning all.

I am currently struggling with the amount of information and a limited knowledge! I am still in the process of wiring up a 2006 R1 and extending the loom for lighting etc. I want to install traditional anologue dials (Limit the grief fellas!)

I therefore want to know what I need and what I can install.

In an ideal world I would want to use smith gauges

Rev Counter
Speedo
Water temp
Oil pressure
Fuel level

I am using the stork on the sierra column for indicators, main beam and standard Hazard.

So would want savage switches for

Lights (do I need side lights?)
Horn
Heater
Wipers
Fog light
Washer

(Yes also putting a screen on ultimately so I epect more grief!)

I have then got a bright six (Bike) which I am going to attempt to wire in.

This is a mind field for such an amateur any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Edited on 30/10/08 by Rob WM]


motorcycle_mayhem - 30/10/08 at 10:15 AM

Should be possible, but I can't say what you'd need specifically for the R1.

GSXR1000:

What I can say is that I've got the excellent STACK 80mm tacho (engine ECU feed) with combined speedo (sensor on wheel hub) - some not locost amount though (420 quid or so). Oil pressure is off a Racetech sensor in the oil gallery water temp from a sensor in the top hose. Fuel level (was) a nice LED bar (Racetech again) - now a race tank and dip tube.
I used all the bike handlebar switches for lights, etc. on a cross tube under the steering column.
BUT I think the fundamental difference here is that my wiring for the engine is independent of all this. The engine loom is what the engine requires to run, nothing else, everything else is the 'car' loom around it. The only grief I'm going to give you is to say that it seems silly to me to do it any other way.


m8kwr - 30/10/08 at 10:34 AM

I am going to be using an R1 engine, and i would of thought a digital dash would of been easier to wire in, i would of thought less wires as well. I have looked at the evo dash, but there are cheaper ones at there, but can not think of them, and if you where to use new dials, then a combined one i think works out cheaper, and what it is worth, looks nicer

In reference to the switches, if you are going to get in through the sva then salvage switches should be ok, but with the new iva the symbol needs to be correct for what it does.


jimgiblett - 30/10/08 at 10:42 AM

The original bike clocks will work out a lot cheaper, easier to wire up, more reliable and much more water resistent than all but the most expensive aftermarket stuff. Just add a fuel guage and an oil temp / presure gauge and away you go.

Just my 2p worth

- Jim


stuart_g - 30/10/08 at 11:17 AM

I'm with Jim on this one.
The other added benefit of using the bike clocks is the diagnostics function and you get a shift light built in.
I also think it looks neater than having loads of individual dials and warning lights everywhere.

Don't forget you will also need a handbrake/low fluid level warning light.


Rob WM - 30/10/08 at 12:20 PM

All good stuff fellas. I am considering an R1 clock but I just prefer the look of old school dials.

If I were to get an R1 clock is fleabay the best route?

Have I missed out any requirements for SVA on the above dial/switch list?

Thanks again


jimgiblett - 30/10/08 at 12:30 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Rob WM
If I were to get an R1 clock is fleabay the best route?Thanks again


Yep Fleabay is a good source or Malc at Yorkshire Engines. Remember to get the right model year for your ECU/Engine.

Cheers

Jim


Rob WM - 30/10/08 at 04:37 PM

Just had a word with Malc at Yorkshire engines. He said any R1 clock from 2004 to 2008 will just plug and play. While I do prefer the separte clocks I can not argue with the cost of using bike clocks plus and this is a big plus for me. They shouldn't give me such a headache when wiring them up.

Thanks all


jimgiblett - 30/10/08 at 06:44 PM

A 4 year span! Previous ones changed every 2 years.

That should make them much easier to find.

- Jim