I've just acquired a K-series engine out of an MGF to go in the back of a buggy. I've also got the MGF subframe and running gear and was
just about to get stuck into stuffing the subframe up the blunt end of the buggy when I decided to pull out the dipstick...and found chicken soup.
This isn't too bad as I would've been changing the head gasket at some point so at least if I do it now with the engine sat on my bench,
it'll be easier than if it was in the buggy. Anyhoo, my questions:
Way back when I fixed a few K-series, the only option other than replacing the head gaskets with OE replacement kits, was to use Freelander kits.
These came with a few different items and were considered to be 'the upgrade'. Now there seems to be dozens of different options! The cheap
kits, which include the stretch bolts, start at £35. It's possible to spend up to £250. So what's the score? Do I need to buy a kit with the
ladder too? Or is it OK to lob a cheap kit at it, wrap a new cam belt round the spinny bits and turn the key?!
TIA..
The Freelander MLS is a waste of time if the liners aren't sitting at even heights proud of the block even then it has to be the proper sticky
"works" version" and the require the use of Hylomar or they seep sligtly.
The original gasket is more tolerant of liner height suffers from shuffle durring warm up and as a result the polymer seals go.
The complete solution is the the SAIC gasket used in the MG7 and Roewe 750 this is a coventional gasket slightly thicker than either the original
or the MLS. It is more tolerant of liner heights than MLS but the liner heights still need checked and any sunken liners pulled out and shimmed.
The head bolts can be used up to 5 times --- provided the threads are cleaned properly and screw in freely and the fitted height is checked. The
fitted height should be checked before fiting the head by hand screwing the bolts in to check they screw in enough to properly clamp the head down
and put enough crush on the gasket.
I would also strongly recommend fitting the PRT external thermostat.
[Edited on 13/5/17 by britishtrident]
I'm going through the same problems at the moment and I've opted for this kit.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/ultimate-k-series-head-gasket-fix-n-series-gasket-high-tension-head-bolts-and-revised-oil-rail-equiv-to-zua000530
Do not under any circumstances use the cheap unbranded eBay mls gasket set! I made this mistake and it leaked from day one. I took it appart and
changed the gasket for a quality one without doing anything else and it did 40k without looking a drop.
I've done many k series hg and the best solution seems to be the standard gasket but a quality version from payen.
Standard OEM Payne gasket has a lot of advantages but they tend to have a fixed life in that they start weeping around the 60k mile mark earlier if
driven hard from a cold start. Swaping the thermostat for a PRT stat a cheap Landrover TD5 part but the plumbing is really ugly or drilling the
thermostat is a wise move. On cars with water valve heaters it is essential to check the "SAAB Valve" is allowing by-pass when the heater
is set to cold.
The other issues are the inlet manifold gasket, and the water pump-thermostat O rings. Manifold gaskets tend to leak at the corners although the
revised duck egg green gaskets are better than the old black type. The O ring seals on the water pump/thermostat housing often weep thet also suffer
from the steel water rail that runs along the back of the block not being fitted re-fitted properly.
I coat the O rings and inside of end of the tube with Blue Hylomar or silicone grease before fitting. It is essential that the two support brakets
for this tube are properly bolted to the block I have see a couple of cases where the bolts have been left out because they are hard to reach with the
cylinder head fitted. Life Hack make studs up to replace the two bolts.
[Edited on 13/5/17 by britishtrident]
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Standard OEM Payne gasket has a lot of advantages but they tend to have a fixed life in that they start weeping around the 60k mile mark earlier if driven hard from a cold start. Swaping the thermostat for a PRT stat a cheap Landrover TD5 part but the plumbing is really ugly or drilling the thermostat is a wise move. On cars with water valve heaters it is essential to check the "SAAB Valve" is allowing by-pass when the heater is set to cold.
The other issues are the inlet manifold gasket, and the water pump-thermostat O rings. Manifold gaskets tend to leak at the corners although the revised duck egg green gaskets are better than the old black type. The O ring seals on the water pump/thermostat housing often weep thet also suffer from the steel water rail that runs along the back of the block not being fitted re-fitted properly.
I coat the O rings and inside of end of the tube with Blue Hylomar or silicone grease before fitting. It is essential that the two support brakets for this tube are properly bolted to the block I have see a couple of cases where the bolts have been left out because they are hard to reach with the cylinder head fitted. Life Hack make studs up to replace the two bolts.
[Edited on 13/5/17 by britishtrident]
Thanks chaps. That's exactly the advise I was looking for.
I forgot to say the camshaft locking tool sold for these engines isn't much good as is locks the camshafts 1/2 a tooth pitch out and is only
useful for keeping the cams in roughly the right position when the head is off.
The life hack for fitting the cam belt on these engines is 4 wooden or plastic dowls of exactly the same length inserted down the plug holes -- I
use 4 wooden knitting needles bought from PoundWorld+. Because the cam belt is fitted when the pistons are at 1/2 stroke when inserted down the plug
holes the tops of all 4 dowls/knitting needles should at exactly the same height above the cam carrier this gives a quick visiual check that the
crankshaft hasn't while you loop the belt over the sprockets.
[Edited on 14/5/17 by britishtrident]
Thanks BT. I'm a bit anal when setting timing and always try to double-check that what I'm looking at is what it should be!! I have a set of nylon rods with a plug thread on them which will come in handy in the absence of knitting needles.
And then this happened....
slipped liner ?
The liners haven't moved and it's hard to reverse diagnose but there's damage to the tops of two liners. It must have been running with the damage as the damage is polished! I've lobbed it all back together for now but I'm looking for another motor....