Mr Whippy
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 08:15 AM |
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Cutting holes in toughened glass
Is this possible? Or will they just explode?! I had thought perhaps the hole could be ground through using a grinding bit like this –
turning slowly and heaps of water. But not sure tbh, I was under the impression just a scratch would cause it to break. I’m wanting to fit brackets
for pop out windows that the fittings bolt through the glass, I'm also wanting to do this for the back window which is not available with such
holes.
Any ideas?
Cheers 
[Edited on 19/1/09 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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blakep82
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 08:18 AM |
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well, they need to cut out windscreens for cars somehow... 
don't know how you'd do it, but it must be possible
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dinosaurjuice
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 08:19 AM |
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cant be done according to wikipedia, it would have to be annealed, reworked and then toughened again.
wiki link
will
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 08:32 AM |
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Mind though that windscreens are ordinary glass glued to plastic, but side and back windows are heat treated or toughened. I have some spare glass
lying around which I won't mind breaking but was wondering if there was a way to do it then round the holes edges to relieve the stresses
afterwards.
Probably a lost cause but thought it worth asking…
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 08:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
well, they need to cut out windscreens for cars somehow...
don't know how you'd do it, but it must be possible
Modern windscreens are laminated, not toughened. You can't even cut toughened glass in a straight line, firstly the cutter won't score it
as the outside is so tough, and even if you managed that it has so much internal stress that it would just shatter into thousands of pieces if you
tried to break it.
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BillHoll
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 08:41 AM |
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I work for Pilkington Glass and the answer is No unless you want to be covered in glass. All glass is cut, drilled, printed and ground before
toughning or lamminating.
Our research place could do it but you would need to get a second morgage to pay for it.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 08:57 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BillHoll
I work for Pilkington Glass and the answer is No unless you want to be covered in glass. All glass is cut, drilled, printed and ground before
toughning or lamminating.
Our research place could do it but you would need to get a second morgage to pay for it.
 cheers
do you think the glass could be annealed back to normal, drilled and then toughened again? The side windows are flat but the rear is very curved.
ta
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BillHoll
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 09:24 AM |
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This could be done, but you would need a glass company to do it on a roller furnace. Basically the glass would have to be heated to 750 deg C and then
allowed to cool slowly. To toughen glass you heat it to 750 degC and then cool in about 25 seconds back to normal temperature as that is what toughens
the glass.
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nick205
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 09:42 AM |
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...only thinking aloud here Whip, but could you use perspex/lexan for the side and rear windows?
Alternatively, could you bond suitable metal brackets onto the surface of the glass?
There are some pretty serious adhesives available these days from the likes of 3M etc.
We use 3M tape to bond stainless steel fascia plates to the mild steel cases on some of our products at work. To date, we have not been able to
seperate the parts once bonded.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 09:54 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
...only thinking aloud here Whip, but could you use perspex/lexan for the side and rear windows?
Alternatively, could you bond suitable metal brackets onto the surface of the glass?
There are some pretty serious adhesives available these days from the likes of 3M etc.
We use 3M tape to bond stainless steel fascia plates to the mild steel cases on some of our products at work. To date, we have not been able to
seperate the parts once bonded.
Cheers guys, very good info
The windows are for the beetle and hence the rear is extremely curved (double) and needs to be glass and all the windows will be hinged pop out ones.
The adhesive idea sounds like it might work if I could make some brackets to glue on. Think I'll buy some and give it a go, see what gives first
- the glass or the glue
Cheers
[Edited on 19/1/09 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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BillHoll
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 11:11 AM |
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We use 3m tape to bond window fastenings and mirrors to automotive glass The mirror patches for bonding on the rear view mirror should be ok, all you
need to do is ensure both surfaces are clean, heat them with a hairdrier and then hold them together for about 1 min. The patch reaches full cure
after about 72 hours but is strong enough not to fall off once cooled.
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 11:55 AM |
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I have tried cutting a piece out of my hardened shower door. My advise is before you do anything put some kind of blanket underneith to collect the
broken glass pieces.
I have used an angle grinder with diamond cutter disc. When I was almost finished, the glass broke. Next time (if any) I will do it more slowly, and
use water to cool the glass.
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 12:15 PM |
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I mind trying to remove a rear view mirror from a scrap car and it was so well glued on, the windscreen cracked in half  so I suppose the glue would
be more than up to the task. Cutting 14 holes, in glass will probably just end in lots of cleaning up...
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Delinquent
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| posted on 19/1/09 at 03:07 PM |
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For the rear glass yes glue would be your only option - but for the side glasses, it's surprisingly cheap to get shapes cut, drilled and then
toughened - look for the nearest commercial glazier to you and give them a shout. I'm having 6 panes made up with 8 holes in each for a few
bob.
Oh - and I also had pop out windows made for my Carson Top Beetle, so definitely doable in this instance
[Edited on 19/1/09 by Delinquent]
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