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Author: Subject: Tig Welding
mistergrumpy

posted on 15/2/10 at 11:10 PM Reply With Quote
Tig Welding

Can anyone help? I practising my TIG welding and seem to have a common problem.
I appear to get two pools. One on each piece of ally and they don't want to flow together and join into one.
The pieces are close, almost touching but this seems to be a problem. I've tried increasing the power but it burns through and I've tried increasing the AC balance which doesn't help.
Is it just me or the settings?

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NigeEss

posted on 15/2/10 at 11:13 PM Reply With Quote
Isn't at this point you add filler wire ?
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mistergrumpy

posted on 15/2/10 at 11:18 PM Reply With Quote
Hmm. Yeah that would sound right. The filler tends to blob in front. Maybe its my technique then?
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NigeEss

posted on 15/2/10 at 11:29 PM Reply With Quote
U2U your address, I've a DVD tutorial on TIG, I'll rip you a copy.
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ashg

posted on 16/2/10 at 01:25 AM Reply With Quote
weld pool is not hot enough. you need lots more amps. do you have a pedal? the ideal is to wack loads of amps into the piece to get the weld pool going then back off the amps once you are going.

if you dont have a pedal try this method

set the amps nice and high then set the slope out to 5 seconds. put the welder on 2T. start off with your finger on the button to get the pool nice and hot so it joins, then as it starts to get away from you take your finger off the button and it will back the amps off, as the amps cool off give the button a quick press to rise the amps again then off for a second or two then on and off keeping the heat in the pool. it gets easier the more you try.

also make sure you really clean up the ali and the filler before you start then you can back off the cleaning to get better penetration.

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SeaBass

posted on 16/2/10 at 09:40 AM Reply With Quote
A pretty obvious one from me but I found getting the tungsten closer into the corners helped this situation. This will required a less shaky hand. There is a great video kicking around on the web by Ron Covell on TIG welding.

JC

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Peteff

posted on 16/2/10 at 10:23 AM Reply With Quote
The rod and the tungsten should be at 90* to each other and only dip the tip of the rod in the weld pool, don't try to melt the rod with the heat from the arc or you will touch the tungsten and have to sharpen it again.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Breaker

posted on 16/2/10 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SeaBass
A pretty obvious one from me but I found getting the tungsten closer into the corners helped this situation. This will required a less shaky hand. There is a great video kicking around on the web by Ron Covell on TIG welding.

JC


Also make sure you have the correct electrode color (green) and thickness.

Make sure the aluminum is very clean and degreased. You can also try to wire brush the sides that should join. Brushing will decrease the aluminum-oxide layer and should make it easier to weld.

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mistergrumpy

posted on 16/2/10 at 01:04 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers so far.
AshG that's helped a lot. I don't have a pedal yet, they're too dear and I'm struggling to find the right connector. They all seem to be too small.

Breaker. I'm using a white electrode. A thin one it is which in itself seems alright.

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Peteff

posted on 16/2/10 at 01:18 PM Reply With Quote
You can use ceriated, zirconiated or pure tungsten for AC welding. I use ceriated as it can be used for DC as well so saves keeping two types.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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atm92484

posted on 16/2/10 at 02:45 PM Reply With Quote
Don't forget about lanthanated tungsten electrodes as well.

I haven't tried the others, but the lanthanated ones hold their tip very well and give you excellent puddle control.





-Andrew
Build Log

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mistergrumpy

posted on 17/2/10 at 03:29 PM Reply With Quote
I've just ben fiddling agin and turned the pulse on and set it high and managed to get a good line going of a couple of inches.
I've set the slope down and if I remember it used to stay on for a short time after releasing the button but it won't do it now. I'm guessing it's my knob set up.
I'm getting the hang a bit. It seems that the puddle will flow a couple of 'blobs' or so without filler so I've no need to keep ramming it in there and when I do it goes a good way. Just have to concentrate and not let it run away and blow through now. Well chuffed!

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