blakep82
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 10:10 PM |
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anyone near me got a milling machine?
need the exhaust ports opened out on my exhaust a bit, got a die grinder with carbide burrs, but an hour, and i'm not even a quarter of the way
on one port yet. the guy who welded the exhaust suggested milling it, but didn't know anyone who has a mill
when i say near me, i'm talking glasgow furthest
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austin man
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 10:30 PM |
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try the burrs in an electric drill it a bit quicker and appear to have more torque use a the die grinder for the final smoothing out
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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blakep82
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 10:33 PM |
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ah, interesting, hadn't thought of that. the grinders pretty good, and fast, but will see how that goes tomorrow.
still interested in someone with a mill, but fingers crossed. i'm a bit worried about burning out the burrs too though. i'm using oil on
them to keep them cooled, but worried about overheating them and wearing them out too quick. they're tungsten carbide. should i be worried about
that? they're pretty hard aren't they?
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austin man
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 10:58 PM |
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use the slowest speed on the drill and oil to cool
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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paulf
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 11:06 PM |
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Theres no need to use any coolant , carbide is still just as hard at red heat.I use them for steel with no coolant with no problems, part of the
problem may be the oil is clogging them and preventing them from cutting.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
ah, interesting, hadn't thought of that. the grinders pretty good, and fast, but will see how that goes tomorrow.
still interested in someone with a mill, but fingers crossed. i'm a bit worried about burning out the burrs too though. i'm using oil on
them to keep them cooled, but worried about overheating them and wearing them out too quick. they're tungsten carbide. should i be worried about
that? they're pretty hard aren't they?
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 11:17 PM |
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I thought tungsten burrs were for speeds in excess of 10,000 rpm, up to about 20,000+ rpm. An electric drill is only good for about 3,000 rpm when not
under load. Surely a die grinder is the tool designed for the job.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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austin man
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 11:35 PM |
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air powered die grinders slow down easily when pressure is placed on them or so I found, my trusty old B&D drill with 2 speeds was grest for this
I then used the die grinder to grind the ports smooth then finished off with a piece of 10mm dowel with a slit in it where i placed emery cloth put it
in the drill added oil and polished the chambers.
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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paulf
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| posted on 29/11/10 at 11:42 PM |
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An industrial die grinder will not slow down as long as its got a good air supply, but I agree for home use a drill is quite capable of doing the job
of removing the bulk and then use a die grinder for polishing.
Paul
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Simon
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 12:53 AM |
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Or a B&D Powerfile get belts from Screwfix - cheaply.
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 30/11/10 by Simon]
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SPYDER
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 10:18 AM |
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I would recommend using WD40 as a coolant/ lubricant.
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v8kid
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 10:36 AM |
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Tungsten carbide cutter on a die grinder should cut through mild or cast steel like butter. Is it sharp if not you could go to Bills tool store in the
barrows and buy a good quality one.
Are you cutting the valve seat cos that's a different kettle of fish - stones work best here (cutters dull quicker) but still slow.
Nearest petrolhead machinist I know is Raymond over Edinburgh direction he can machine anything to incredibly tight tolerances and does not rip us
petrolheads off.
Cheers
David
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 01:23 PM |
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Ive just got a small mill but it's up in oban and Im not sure how you would do about clamping it.
My die grinder is pretty quick in steel, Im using garryson (sp) cutters I got off ebay in a lidl die grinder, so nothing amazing. A good air supply is
a must though! Dont use a drill, youll kill the bearings in no time.
My Build Thread
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blakep82
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 02:32 PM |
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thanks everyone  i should have said though, its a clarke die grinder, using a 3hp, 14cfm compressor with 150 litre tank. should be well up to the
job, but i'm grinding a 10mm thick stainless (not sure which grade) flange. so not mild steel.
so, paul, you say don't use any oil or coolant? thought that would wear the burrs down quicker, but i'll give it a shot, i've got a
few spare i think. will need to look wor them. the burrs are from machine mart too, so make what you will on the quality 
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v8kid
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 03:19 PM |
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Ah! Stainless!
This stuff work hardens so if you try and take a fine cut all it does is to make it more difficult. The trick is to do a few very heavy cuts. You
really need a kick ass die grinder. Make hose as short as poss and even couple up compressors.
Could Andy waterjet cut it?
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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blakep82
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 06:05 PM |
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nope  he cut the plates for me, i made a few mistakes with them, as the holes on the original plate were ground out. the pipes don't actually
line up with the ports on the head. they never did. to save another plate being cut with holes in the wrong place i asked the holes were made smaller
all round and i'd grind them out. didn't think it would take so long. so now the exhaust is all welded up, and the holes need opening up.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 30/11/10 at 06:31 PM |
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It does sound like you've made life difficult for yourself! How much do you need to remove? Is it enough so that you could drill out some of the
metal?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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blakep82
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| posted on 12/12/10 at 12:53 AM |
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nope, beleive me, its the best way it could be done, i've not made things difficult, sure i could have kept getting more plates done making
small changes til i get on perfect, but that would cost me a fortune in stainless steel and postage, so how could i have done it better?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 12/12/10 at 10:22 AM |
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Would have been better to have made a cardboard template or even a thin piece of sheet steel to match the ports before transfering it to the final
article.My Xflow inlet is 12mm ally plate , I was lucky I could use a gasket for the shape and size, just had a little fettling before welding. A
Clarke die grinder isn't up to any heavy usage, as said already a decent die grinder will do the job
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 12/12/10 at 12:14 PM |
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You might find it a lot easier to grind it out rather than trying to use a burr. Trying to hold a burr steady enough to cut the stainless is going to
be very difficult indeed!Each cut you make (as has been mentioned) is only going to make it harder as the surface work hardens. this will also happen
with a milling cutter. Hand cutting alloy is one thing but stainless is a lot different!
Not to mention that the burr is gonna take a pounding from the constant chatter and they cost far more than a fistfull of stones!
Unless there is a specific reason that I could not use a grind stone, then that is how I would do it
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 12/12/10 at 02:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
nope, beleive me, its the best way it could be done, i've not made things difficult, sure i could have kept getting more plates done making
small changes til i get on perfect, but that would cost me a fortune in stainless steel and postage, so how could i have done it better?
I
would have used plastacine or a putty
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