mark chandler
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:13 PM |
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How do you keep your morse taper chucks in your drill?
Mine is a good fit, however it does sometimes spin and drop out, very annoying so what do you do?
Its an old meeding pillar drill, the shaft is not hollow so I cannot use a long bolt through the head aka a mill so I am thinking about a smear of
locktight may resolve things, thoughts anyone?
Cheers Mark
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paulf
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:24 PM |
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Make sure there are no burrs anywhere on the shank of the chuck and then check the taper in the spindle is also smooth and dry of oil .If all is OK
put the chuck into the drill and either put a block of wood on the drill table and pull down on the handle to push the chuck in tight or carefully tap
it in place with a soft mallet.There should be no need to loctite it and if you did then you may have a problem latter if you need to remove the
chuck.
Paul
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:27 PM |
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I suspect that it is actually not a good fit. On my drill I need to use a real hard clout with lump hammer and a taper to remove the chuck.
I would try a bit of valve grinding paste on it, work it round and round for a few minutes and then wipe the paste off. It should show where the high
spots are. Then grind it down more until it fits.
I wouldn't use loctite, it is unlikely to work if the fit is bad. And if the fit is good then it work too well and you will never get it out
again.
Good luck
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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v8kid
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:27 PM |
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I usually have difficulty getting the blessed thing out. Are you sure there is not some grit in there?
Is the shaft bent? can you try another chuck?
If cleaning does not work a last resort is grinding paste to remove any high spots or scores. Bit tricky to get rid of it all afterwards tho
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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mark chandler
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:35 PM |
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Thanks Chaps.
It is not oily, it was really secure at one point, to remove I had to make up a key to fit the slot when I fitted a small chuck for more detailed
work. Its never go back well since then 
A good clean is in order then and whack it back 
Regards Mark
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:37 PM |
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I've used grinding paste in the past on tapered shafts , done carefully it will hold your chuck in place . Don't think I would grind out
any high spots myself , just take a bit of time with the paste
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r1_pete
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:41 PM |
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I've never tried it, but I have read that wrapping the taper in writing paper helps with slipping.
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paulf
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:49 PM |
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The problem with trying to grind it in is that it most likely has a tang on it that would stop you from being able to rotate it when in position, this
may have been damaged when removed with the home made taper drift.
Paul
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trikerneil
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 04:21 PM |
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A morse taper should lock in and need a key to break it.
You could try cleaning the spindle bore up with a morse taper reamer LINKY.
HTH
Neil
ACE Cafe - Just say No.
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Wadders
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 05:27 PM |
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A single wrap of newspaper usually does the trick 
Originally posted by r1_pete
I've never tried it, but I have read that wrapping the taper in writing paper helps with slipping.
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 8/2/12 at 05:54 PM |
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Are you talking about the taper in the drill spindle, or the Jacobs taper that some chucks have in the top, which adapts the chuck top the morse
sleeve?
Cheers,
Nev.
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