Ivan
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posted on 15/12/12 at 10:21 AM |
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Casting and Drilling lead - anything I should know
I need a lead hammer to use for the knock-on spinners for my new Cobra wheels - I am having difficulty sourcing one in South Africa and as I have a
few kilos of lead lying around I thought I would cast one but to attach the handle I need to drill a 12mm hole through the head.
Do I just drill at low speed using conventional steel bits and lubricant or are there some tricks or potential problems that I should be aware of.
I was just planning to use a piece of 50mm pipe with one end welded shut as both the mould and crucible - any potential problems with that idea.
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Simon
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posted on 15/12/12 at 10:46 AM |
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1 Make sure there are no potential leaks, molten lead very fluid and will find holes.
2 Lead holds temp for quite a while so be patient.
3 Using pipe is good idea, but you'll want some lead proud of pipe for hammering, weld handle to steel pipe, don't drill lead for handle,
you'll never secure.
You can put the flame directly on lead to melt it, saves heating the crucible to melt (but slightly irrelevant as you'll be keeping
anyway).
4 Obviously, hand, eye and body protection.
ATB
Simon.
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David Jenkins
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posted on 15/12/12 at 10:46 AM |
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Why not put a 12mm steel bar across the middle of your mould? You can knock it out after it has cooled.
Another safety warning - make sure that the mould is ABSOLUTELY dry before casting, as any water will instantly turn to steam and molten lead will be
ejected with a lot of force (seen it done!).
[Edited on 15/12/12 by David Jenkins]
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snakebelly
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posted on 15/12/12 at 11:06 AM |
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And obviously don't inhales the fumes
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theconrodkid
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posted on 15/12/12 at 11:15 AM |
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what Mr Jenkins said about being dry,molten lead does burn,ask me how i know
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Simon
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posted on 15/12/12 at 11:42 AM |
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If the pipe is to be used as both mould an crucible, then when lead scrap is put in and then melted, crucible will dry as heating process starts. Good
practice otherwise.
ATB
Simon
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britishtrident
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posted on 15/12/12 at 12:06 PM |
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As already posted you can just pour the molten lead into the mould and cast in a a steel shaft
However you probably can't buy a lead hammer because they have been supplant by "Dead Blow Hammers" which are tough SRS
plastic hammers filled with steel shot.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_blow_hammer
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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blakep82
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posted on 15/12/12 at 12:39 PM |
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interesting stuff, but why does it have to be lead? can it be a rubber or leather mallet?
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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MakeEverything
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posted on 15/12/12 at 01:12 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by blakep82
interesting stuff, but why does it have to be lead? can it be a rubber or leather mallet?
+1, i would use a hide mallet.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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designer
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posted on 15/12/12 at 01:51 PM |
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Hide faced, like these here:
http://toolexchange.com.au/Hammers-Soft-Face.html
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britishtrident
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posted on 15/12/12 at 02:49 PM |
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For this application it really has to be a fairly hefty hammer --- 1kg/2lbs hide and ordinary soft face plastic mallets are a bit too girly,
hence why I suggested a dead blow hammer.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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designer
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posted on 15/12/12 at 04:34 PM |
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I have a hide faced hammer which is a lot heavier than a limp hammer!
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MikeRJ
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posted on 15/12/12 at 05:40 PM |
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You could always buy/make a Jaguar, Aston or MG, Healey wire wheel spinner saver to protect your spinners.
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clanger
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posted on 15/12/12 at 08:01 PM |
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another vote for dead blow hammer............one of my favourite tools
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paulf
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posted on 15/12/12 at 09:56 PM |
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When I served my apprenticeship in a tool room they used to make lead mallets by casting the lead around the handle which was usually a bit of tube or
solid bar with a cross pin in it.I always used to use a copper faced mallet for the knock offs on my mgb.
Paul
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