renetom
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| posted on 16/7/13 at 07:38 AM |
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Hi
If you have access to a pillar drill with a vice
Make sure you centrepop the head centrally
drill first with a small pilot drill then use a drill
a nats over the thread size to drill off the heads.
take it slow & be careful not to go too deep
You will see the head come off as you drill.
Good luck.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 16/7/13 at 08:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Easyouts just need the correct prep, which is drilling to the right dimensions and attempting to free the sheared off part. If you don't prep it
well it'll snap off and bite you.
Never failed to get a screw out with an easyout. That said, if the head is intact I would try other options first until you've no others left
but the easyout.
If a fastener has been sheared because it's seized by e.g. corrosion or thread galling then an easyout is likely to to fail. In the OP's
case the screws are seized and will likely only be M5 or M6, so an easyout would be extremely thin and fragile which makes a recipe for failure.
Used in the correct situations easyouts are excellent devices, but this isn't one of them IMO.
Drilling the head off followed by welding a nut to the remaining fastener (if there is enough) is a well tried and tested method that can free even
the most stubborn screws and bolts. Alternatively drilling the entire thing out very carefully (preferably in a pillar) drill can often remove a
bolt/screw and leave the threads intact. The final resort would be the drill everything out, threads and all and use a helicoil to re-thread it.
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dhutch
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| posted on 16/7/13 at 10:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
If a fastener has been sheared because it's seized by e.g. corrosion or thread galling then an easyout is likely to to fail. In the OP's
case the screws are seized and will likely only be M5 or M6, so an easyout would be extremely thin and fragile which makes a recipe for failure.
Used in the correct situations easyouts are excellent devices, but this isn't one of them IMO.
Yes.
I dont know how much force was used to round the head, aka, if its because a poor quality allan tool was used, if its because its well stuck, or if
its because the head is soft or previously damaged. If its a head/tool issue, cutting a slot in it, hammering a torq or imperial allan into whats
left, may work. If it is fairly tight, welding a nut on is a cracking method for this sort of thing and one of the main things I used my welder for
(sadly or otherwise). If its really bloody well stuck, you might be on a hiding to nothing.
You will not drill a steel bolt out of a aluminum boss by hand, even with a good pillar drill its not an easy job.
Daniel
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jps
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| posted on 16/7/13 at 11:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
If a fastener has been sheared because it's seized by e.g. corrosion or thread galling then an easyout is likely to to fail. In the OP's
case the screws are seized and will likely only be M5 or M6, so an easyout would be extremely thin and fragile which makes a recipe for failure.
Used in the correct situations easyouts are excellent devices, but this isn't one of them IMO.
Yes.
I dont know how much force was used to round the head, aka, if its because a poor quality allan tool was used, if its because its well stuck, or if
its because the head is soft or previously damaged. If its a head/tool issue, cutting a slot in it, hammering a torq or imperial allan into whats
left, may work. If it is fairly tight, welding a nut on is a cracking method for this sort of thing and one of the main things I used my welder for
(sadly or otherwise). If its really bloody well stuck, you might be on a hiding to nothing.
You will not drill a steel bolt out of a aluminum boss by hand, even with a good pillar drill its not an easy job.
Daniel
The allan key is decent I think (from a Makita engineers set) and hasn't deformed. From the ease with which is rounded the bolt I am thinking
the bolt head being soft was the problem...
The 3 which I did manage to loosen all took a lot of pressure then went with a 'crack' so I assume have corroded slightly in the threads
hence seizing..
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 16/7/13 at 08:24 PM |
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quote:
The 3 which I did manage to loosen all took a lot of pressure then went with a 'crack' so I assume have corroded slightly in the
threads hence seizing..
more likely the countersync bolt to wheel surface, (a much larger area) maybe try a release agent like plusgas or coke! also try clockwise to release
the 'sticktion'
also maybe replace the 3 removed already to clamp it back in place.
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