TrophyJem
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 09:16 AM |
|
|
Soldering copper pipe (any plumbers in cambs area?)
I have to plumb from my swirl pot to fuel pump and the only way I can get a pipe in space I have is to use copper pipe and fittings as per the picture
below.
The problem I have is soldering it together. I've practised following YouTube videos and I'm crap.
So are there any plumbers on here in the cambs area that could solder this up for me?
|
|
|
|
|
Daddylonglegs
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 09:32 AM |
|
|
Are you using a soldering iron or blow torch?
If you are using a soldering iron, the normal hobbysit type thing will be no good. Best using a blow torch to get the heat in. As long as it's
clean and you put flux on the joint first it should flow fine. I'm no plumber, but I've always managed to do it OK.
Maybe an expert will be along soon 
HTH
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
|
|
|
TrophyJem
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 09:36 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Daddylonglegs
Are you using a soldering iron or blow torch?
If you are using a soldering iron, the normal hobbysit type thing will be no good. Best using a blow torch to get the heat in. As long as it's
clean and you put flux on the joint first it should flow fine. I'm no plumber, but I've always managed to do it OK.
Maybe an expert will be along soon
HTH
Yeah I'm using a blow torch.
Cleaning the joints before and brushing flux on.
I just can't get a joint that I'm happy with.
|
|
|
Wheels244
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 10:20 AM |
|
|
If you're not comfortable with your soldering abilities, buy the fittings with solder rings in, you can't really go wrong with them.
Wire wool the parts to clean them, flux the joints and heat with a blow lamp, I always add a bit of extra solder - just belts and braces.
If you was closer I would have done it for you.
Rob
Build Blog: http://wheels244.wordpress.com/
|
|
|
pewe
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 10:47 AM |
|
|
I'm no plumber but have soldered hundreds of end feed joints as your pic. with a gas torch.
As said above ^^ providing the pipe is clean and you use flux they should be OK.
End-feed will not show much solder at the ends as the rely on capillary action to suck the solder into the space between the pipe and fitting.
If you're in doubt pressure test by sealing one end, putting an air-line on the other (taking care as pressurised air can be dangerous) then put
it all in water.
Any leaks will show as bubbles but odds-on there won't be any.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10 
|
|
|
twybrow
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 10:50 AM |
|
|
The trick I found is to not think about heating the whole fitting - you need to heat where you want the solder to flow to as the solder will tend to
move from a cool area to a hot area. As soon as I sopped directly heating the area with solder in, I have had food results ever since.
|
|
|
owelly
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 10:52 AM |
|
|
Are you tinning the joints first?
Clean the joints using wire wool, including inside the fittings. Then clean them again just to make sure.
Apply the flux paste and start to heat the copper straight away. Heat it just enough for the solder to melt onto the copper, don't melt the
solder with the flame, if that makes any sense? Once you have all the pipe-ends and fittings tinned (coated in solder) then you can apply a bit more
flux and assemble the pipework. If you've put too much solder on, you won't get the fittings together so you'll have to either:
1. heat up the pipework and 'wipe' the solder off with a damp cloth. This will still leave the copper 'tinned'.
2. heat up the pipework and push it all together and start to solder the job.
Try to avoid applying too much heat. If the copper turns blue, you've got it too hot and you may be as well sweating it all apart and starting
again.
If you have solder running all over the place, use the damp cloth the wipe it away to makea neat finish
As you're wafting the flame over the joints and applying dabs of solder, keep dipping the solder in the flux.
Sorry if I'm telling you stuff you already know and I'm sure there are plenty of folks who are confident with soldering and will miss out
cleaning, tinning and applying extra solder but the way I've been taught and doing for the past 20-odd years has never let me down and
I've never had to revisit a joint! Obviously, with practice, most of the stages all merge into one!
Good luck.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
|
|
|
Davey D
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 10:53 AM |
|
|
It is possible to get too much heat into it leaving a bad joint. just heat it up gently, occasionally testing the solder to see if it melts on it.
once it starts to melt remove the heat, and move the solder round. every so often giving it a quick waft with the flame
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 10:55 AM |
|
|
Yes. Just use capilary ring fittings instead. Apply the torch to each end of the fitting until a "flash" of solder creeps out at the end
of the fitting. Jobs a good un. What most people fail to do is clean the copper enough or apply too much or too little solder. I'd say keep at
it, its jusr good prep and practice- I know find end feed easier and more reliable than solder ring....
|
|
|
TrophyJem
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 11:14 AM |
|
|
Cheers for the replies and pointers.
I think I've done it. Its under pressure test now.
[Edited on 26/4/14 by TrophyJem]
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 11:54 AM |
|
|
I was going to say use compression joints
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 01:22 PM |
|
|
Another time you do something like that have a damp wet cloth and as you do the soldering wipe the joint it will smooth the excess solder off
Jacko
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 26/4/14 at 04:16 PM |
|
|
Not a bad effort! If you wire wool it again and heat it gently then the excess solder will often disappear into the joint.
|
|
|
