chris68
|
| posted on 2/6/14 at 08:08 PM |
|
|
Help with an Engine Stand
Hi Guys,
I was given as a surprise present an engine stand and was after a bit of advice from those that have used them.
The instructions show how to assemble it, which was no problem, but not how to attach the engine to it. The back plate has 4 slots each with an arm
with a hollow spacer at the end which sticks out, these arms can be positioned in any angle to accomodate the engine. My question is this: Do you
use the bolts that join the engine and gearbox together, remove them and pass these through the hollow spacers and mount the engine from the threaded
holes around the crankshaft? If so my bolts only show 4-5 threads which to my mind is not enough.
OR.....
Do you buy longer bolts of the same thread pitch and mount through the spacers as above or how about cutting down the hollow spacers to allow more
thread to show using the standard bolts that mate the engine and gearbox?
Any advice gratefully received.
For the record I want to mount a MK2 MX-5 1800 on it for cleaning/refurb etc.
Many thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
Mr C
|
| posted on 2/6/14 at 08:26 PM |
|
|
I use lenghts of threaded rod cut to size with oversize washers to protect the alloy block against the arms, also helps to have a few washers if you
need to use spacers to even out the mounting. Make sure the studs are in as far as they will go though hand tight in the hole then tighten using the
nuts. I leave the arms loose until its all on the block then centralise the mount and tighten everything up.
If I was using bolts I'd be looking for at least 20-25mm screwed into the block
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
|
|
|
trextr7monkey
|
| posted on 3/6/14 at 11:00 AM |
|
|
threaded bar from tool station / screwfix dead cheap, big washers either side.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 3/6/14 at 12:46 PM |
|
|
I just bought bolts with the correct thread for my bellhousing and bolted them through. That does, however, mean I'm left with 96 off 125mm M12
bolts.
|
|
|
chris68
|
| posted on 3/6/14 at 05:11 PM |
|
|
Thanks guys.
I had thought of using threaded bar but not knowing the pitch I hadn't explored that one any further as I did not like the idea of a smaller
diameter threaded bar going through threaded holes with all the weight of the engine hanging on the threads in the crankcase even though it is of iron
- or am i missing the point?.
What I have found are the 4 very long bolts that connect either end of the PPF are of the correct thread pitch but are way too long (20cm with 5cm of
thread) so I could fashion several spacers from metal tube to make up the gap, that way I know there is plenty of thread in to the crankcase holes. I
just need to be aware of the bolt heads sticking out further from the back of the engine stand when altering its position.
I am hoping I can use the 4 holes on the crankcase face so this leaves the head and sump free to be removed which I guess is the idea.
|
|
|
thefreak
|
| posted on 3/6/14 at 10:54 PM |
|
|
MX5 engine yes?
Just get some longer bolts of smaller thread and slot them all the way through the block where the bell housing goes. A nut and washers on the ends
and it will be more than fine. It won't go anywhere no matter what you put on the other end of it:
Damn those crank bolts are tight!
|
|
|
chris68
|
| posted on 4/6/14 at 06:10 AM |
|
|
Thanks for the pic. Can you take one of the other end where its connected to the engine?
I still have a concern about causing damage to the threads in the flange around the crankcase with all the weight resting on them. I guess you have
used this method before and have had no problems?
|
|
|
thefreak
|
| posted on 4/6/14 at 07:14 AM |
|
|
Difficult as it has a gearbox and chassis attached to it now 
The load is going to be spread across the 4 mounting points as well, plus half the holes aren't threaded either.
I've had a couple of MX5s on the stand like this and not had any issues with damaging threads. They're tough blocks you know.
|
|
|
chris68
|
| posted on 4/6/14 at 05:45 PM |
|
|
Having looked at the original bolts that mate engine to gearbox they appear to be M12 with a fine thread pitch, so would M10 threaded bar be man
enough for the job as it will pass through the holes with no probs?
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 4/6/14 at 08:56 PM |
|
|
Man enough- yes, provioding you don't buy cheapo chinese (B&Q) cheese threaded rod.. Depends on your definition of Fine though. M12 comes is
3 thread pitches. 1,1.25 and 1.5 IIRC, M10 comes in 0.75, 1 and 1.25. Get a matching pitch so you don't damage the threads when it rests on
them.
It'll be better to just buy the right bolts.
[Edited on 4/6/14 by coyoteboy]
|
|
|
chris68
|
| posted on 9/6/14 at 06:07 PM |
|
|
Cheers all. Thread pitch gauge purchased, correct pitch bolts of a longer length will be ordered.
|
|
|
