LBMEFM
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| posted on 26/4/15 at 05:01 PM |
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which MIG welder
Looking to buy a new MIG welder, initially I will use it to weld the frame work for my new workshop roof which is 6mm angle iron. Following that I
will use it for car bodywork panels. Looking at web sites it says that cheap MIG's are difficult to use and it shows in the quality of weld,
also 150 - 180amps is preferable. Any advice or experiences very welcome, thank you.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 26/4/15 at 06:07 PM |
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Without a doubt you would be better off asking on the mig welding forum
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jps
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| posted on 26/4/15 at 06:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by LBMEFM
Looking to buy a new MIG welder, initially I will use it to weld the frame work for my new workshop roof which is 6mm angle iron. Following that I
will use it for car bodywork panels. Looking at web sites it says that cheap MIG's are difficult to use and it shows in the quality of weld,
also 150 - 180amps is preferable. Any advice or experiences very welcome, thank you.
I've got a Sealey SuperMig 185 which can handle that thickness, but I've never tried it with thin stuff. I'd guess the flexibility
is the hard thing to find with more powerful welders, ie do they 'turn down' low enough to do thin stuff...
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 26/4/15 at 06:24 PM |
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It depends on your budget, you get what you pay for. If I was looking at get a new 180 amp mig I would seriously consider a Portamig although for 6 mm
you might be better of with an arc welder (MMA) Again check the mig welding forum
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DIY Si
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| posted on 26/4/15 at 10:14 PM |
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Something like my old Migatronic Automig 180 would be ideal for what you want. Cheap(er) machines won't handle the power for 6mm in one clean
pass AND turn down low enough for thin car panels. Mine's rated at 25-180A IIRC. I think I paid £250-300 for mine a while back, but
they're hard to find second hand as no-one wants to part with them!
Failing that, something new and shiny from the reputable traders on the mig welding forum would be a good first step.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 05:37 AM |
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I was thinking a smallish mig for the bodywork, and a cheap arc welder for the 6mm stuff.
Depends on budget of course, but one that will do all you ask will be a very decent machine.....
Agree the mig forum is the place to go.
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 05:54 AM |
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I've got one of these:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/151te-turbo-mig-welder
Does car panels OK, may struggle a bit on the thick stuff but a V-groove and two passes would sort it.
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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907
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 06:56 AM |
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Yup, The MIG forum is the place to go.
My answers on here are utter rubbish, but on the MIG forum I'm a hero. 
Cheers
Paul G
p.s.
43 years welding experience. 7 to go then I'm qualified. 
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mark chandler
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 07:17 AM |
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I had a 150te, perfect for car panels and up to 3-4mm, when it failed to get enough heat into the work on 6mm, it looked okay but when cut little
penetration.
Powerful MiGs have greatly reduced in price these days, however if I was going to send £400-£500 it would be on a reputable DC TIG set
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coozer
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 10:13 AM |
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I've got a portamig 185 from weldequipe.
It does it all, chassis building, car body repairs the lot.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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FASTdan
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 10:28 AM |
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I have the R-tech 160A MIG and can highly recommend it (though I don't think their current model is 160A anymore, think it might be more?). It
'feels' every bit as good to use as the industrial machines I have used in the past. Can be wound right down to do a good job on car
bodywork.
NEW danST WEBSITE NOW LIVE! Bike carbs, throttle bodies and more......
http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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tegwin
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 10:41 AM |
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I would avoid the cheapy clarke/saeley offerings aimed at the DIY hobbyist.... The wire feed mechanisms are totally garbage. I had the 151te for a
while and it was terrible! Yes you could stick bits of metal together but even penetration and "neatness" left a lot to be desired!
Bought a second hand cebora for £300... What a cracking machine it is!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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bart
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 02:01 PM |
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as stated you get exactly what you pay for
cheap sets use aluminium for transformer windings not copper with small undersize cores , and without a physics lesson not a good idea for weld
quality and smoothness.
cebora are reasonable they make all the snap on weld sets ( or used to ) , not the best but a good compromise .
go to a proper welding set seller industrial they can advise .
a good inverter set is easy to weld with but expensive , usually more powerful than a transformer set due to less losses
unfortunately to sum up you generally get what you pay for in a welder .
[Edited on 27/4/15 by bart]
BE ALERT > BRITAIN NEEDS LERTS
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LBMEFM
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| posted on 27/4/15 at 08:17 PM |
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Thanks every one for the advice😀
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