luke2152
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| posted on 20/3/17 at 09:32 PM |
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Fuel tank leak
Identified a small leak from my fuel tank today. About 1 drip per 2 minutes and leaves a small puddle on the floor overnight.
I've pretty much identified where its coming from although I can't see if its a pinhole or a hairline crack. Seems to be coming from the
weld on one of the corners. Photo attached. Reference the green marks I drew the leak appears to start about 2cm below and travels both directions
(slightly shaded patch in the photo and just as hard to see in real life. You can ignore the scratch next to the green line as that was me marking
before I found my green pen. There is a mark made by handbrake cable further down which I thought was the cause but the leak actually starts about
this mark so its not that. But other than these two there's no obvious marks. It must have happened relatively recently because I noticed the
smell in the garage.
Access is a little difficult for welding, tank is silkoflexed to the chassis and I shudder to think what kind of precautions need doing before welding
a petrol tank anyway. Would epoxy JB weld or similar be fuel resistant enough to deal with a small leak?
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 20/3/17 at 09:48 PM |
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That looks almost identical to a leak I had, who made it and when?
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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luke2152
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| posted on 20/3/17 at 10:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
That looks almost identical to a leak I had, who made it and when?
From GBS although I don't think they make it themselves. Guess I brought it about 3 years ago.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 06:09 AM |
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Who stuck it to the chassis?
Stupid idea that is imo! 
Welding is no issue,if you could get the tank out that is!
My m8''s welded loads of alloy tanks, just leave them to dry out for a while before welding and they are fine.
Welding is the only 'proper' fix
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JeffHs
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 09:11 AM |
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Many many years ago I grounded an overloaded A30 on a curb and knocked the tank drain plug causing a leak. I drained, cleaned and applied a large blob
of epoxy putty - I can't remember the name of the stuff but it came in 2 tins, 2 different colour putties that you mixed together in equal
quantities. It never leaked again.
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40inches
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 09:33 AM |
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I have used Granville Petro Patch Putty to seal a leaking motor bike ally tank with success.The area needs to be clinically clean
and abraded. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Granville-0455-Petro-Patch-Putty/dp/B004OS8N1W
Bonding the tank to the chassis!!!!!!!! Why?
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leon51274
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 09:36 AM |
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Granville Petro patch putty is what I used on my fuel tank and its not leaked for over 2 years.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 09:44 AM |
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POR-15 do a liquid that you pour in the tank and sloosh around. I have no experience of this stuff, so I can't comment on how good it is, but I
expect it will be expensive...
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 06:59 PM |
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Another vote for Petro Patch , didn't know it was still available. As others have already asked , why Sikoflex? Suspect the best way to cut it
would perhaps be a cheese wire type windscreen remover?
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froggy
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 08:41 PM |
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Looking at the etching around the weld it looks like it's been fused rather than adding rod like you usually see on ally work . If it's a
crack along the weld with no filler metal rather than a pin hole it's a lot more likely to happen elsewhere if that's how the tanks been
welded up . Normally a quality tank has a lovely stack of dimes pattern on any weld Seams
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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BenB
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 09:56 PM |
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POR15 do a not very expensive tank sealant but you use gravity to get the stuff to the right place which might be tricky... Technoweld would work but
would need a big torch with that surface area....
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luke2152
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| posted on 21/3/17 at 11:14 PM |
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Yeah i initially silkaflexed it to chassis to make sure it wouldn't vibrate but then it stuck so well i didn't need to bolt it down. Maybe
not so clever in retrospect. Still i don't think it will be too hard to remove. Was thinking cheese wire method too like rusty nuts suggested.
Someone PM'd me a story about that whole weld failing suddenly which sounds rather scary. I'm allergic to fire
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snapper
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| posted on 22/3/17 at 07:45 AM |
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Petrol patch will do it but it's not permenant especial if exposed to road grit and water
I used POR 15 and whilst you need to clean and prepare the tank with chemicals that comes with the full kit carefully and dry the tank out completely
once you have used the POR 15 it produces a tough fuel proof layer in the tank.
I even used it to line an intake manifold that had bad welding and porous tubes
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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CosKev3
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| posted on 22/3/17 at 07:59 AM |
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If you are going to remove the tank get it welded end of!
All these sealers etc are only really acceptable if the tank can not be removed imo
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luke2152
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| posted on 22/3/17 at 04:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
If you are going to remove the tank get it welded end of!
All these sealers etc are only really acceptable if the tank can not be removed imo
Ah yeah thats what I mean - if I remove the tank I'll get it properly welded.
I think I'll patch it up for now and keep a close eye on things to see if it spreads. Pull it out and get it welded if need be.
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BenB
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| posted on 22/3/17 at 06:38 PM |
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You could just some of this stuff
http://www.frost.co.uk/oyltite-stik-seals-oil-leaks-thread-sealer.html
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BenB
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| posted on 22/3/17 at 06:40 PM |
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The instructions just say you have to vigorously rub your stick into the crack after peeling back the outer coating.
Reminds me of sex ed lessons...
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