Catpuss
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 03:41 PM |
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Fooking pinto zorts studs. I'm gonna bin it in a mo
Well tried welding a blob on. Can not do it for the life of me. It just keeps putting blobs around the stud rather than on it.
Tried drilling and bit driver. Got a nice line hole to whacked in a bit good and true. THe sod then bent. Tired a torx. That then sodding sheared off
inside.
I'm running out of drill bits now. Fooking engine is making me angry. I may just take the rocker box and shortened sump off and scrap the engine
I'm that fed up with it.
I've managed to extract all the other studs at least.
I am probably going to just drill out the whole stud & try and re tap the head. Failing that I may either drill a new hole and tap that for the
stuff (providing it doesn't screw the head up).
To round that off I noticed oil around the other side of the head gasket and as a final insult to injury my fooking Xbox 360 gave me 3 red lights last
night 
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nitram38
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 04:12 PM |
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If you can, take it to someone who can Tig weld. They will have more control over the welder!
I don't recommend drilling it out unless you have done this before. It can cause worse problems!!! (as you have found out).
Last resort is spark erosion....look it up!
[Edited on 28/10/2006 by nitram38]
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Catpuss
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 04:15 PM |
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There isn't anyone round locally that can do it.
I've drilled out broken studs before but usually steel studs in to ally rather than in to cast iron. These seem to come out much easier as the
bit of heat expands the ally.
I'm gonna get some new dremmel bits tomorrow and drill a few small holes. This is what I did last time and I was able to collapse the stud from
the inside.
The other option is to take the head off.
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nitram38
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 04:17 PM |
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Good luck!!!!!!
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lexi
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 04:24 PM |
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Have you tried putting a nut right over where the stud should be and fire the mig wire through the nut and back into thread of nut till filled up.
Socket on that and it usually comes out.
Alex
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 05:10 PM |
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In the worst case, ask if someone can do spark erosion - it'll cost a few quid, but it's one of those jobs that can be set up and left for
a few hours, so not too expensive.
The device erodes the core of the stud, so you can pick out the remaining threads.
David
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 07:28 PM |
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Weld a nut on, the heat from welding and being able to use a spanner on the nut will help shift the stud. If it breaks off weld on another. If you
need to drill it out invest in some cobolt drill bits, expensive but worth every penny!
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Catpuss
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| posted on 28/10/06 at 07:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lexi
Have you tried putting a nut right over where the stud should be and fire the mig wire through the nut and back into thread of nut till filled up.
Socket on that and it usually comes out.
Alex
I'll give it a try. Just got to work out how to keep the nut in place during the welding. I don't think holding it is going to work too
well 
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Catpuss
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| posted on 29/10/06 at 12:11 PM |
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Ah bleep it
The bottom section of the head just below the zorst stud just cracked off. Its the bit below cylinder 2, i.e. not supported by the block.
I've fookin had enough of this engine. I may well bin it and keep the chopped sump and rocker box.
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Catpuss
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| posted on 29/10/06 at 12:54 PM |
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Would you belive it. I managed to extract the stud with my leather working awl. Soddin typical.
Unfortunatly the head bolt behind is a tad worried now and needs replacing and there is no way that hole can ever be used for a stud again.
New head methinks.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 30/10/06 at 09:51 AM |
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bit late now but there are people local to you on here with TIG facilities.........me for one!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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