NS Dev
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posted on 15/1/07 at 08:13 AM |
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312 Tig Rods
Anybody know of a source that can sell me a handful of 312 (dissimilar metal) TIG rods?
cheers
Nat
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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flak monkey
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posted on 15/1/07 at 08:21 AM |
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Had a few bits from this bloke, always been pretty good:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Welding-Rods-GAS-TIG-ARC_W0QQitemZ320070437297QQihZ011QQcategoryZ98641QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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NS Dev
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posted on 15/1/07 at 10:53 AM |
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cheers Flak!
312 tig rods ordered!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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flak monkey
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posted on 15/1/07 at 10:54 AM |
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No problemo
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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tegwin
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posted on 15/1/07 at 03:49 PM |
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Sorry to hijack the thread...
but whilst we are on the toppic of TIG rods...
What TIG rods and electrodes Do I need for welding stainless 409?
I have found a guy who is a really good mild steel TIG welder who is willing to have a go at stainless tigging my chassis...I just have to find the
rods and electrodes... Anything else I will need for him?
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flak monkey
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posted on 15/1/07 at 03:56 PM |
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Same electrodes as for steel will be fine. 1.6mm dia should do all you need for the chassis.
Ideally you need to weld it with 409 filler rod, but failing that 309 or 430 should be ok. You should be able to get what you need from a decent weld
shop.
Why couldnt you use 316?
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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tegwin
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posted on 15/1/07 at 05:00 PM |
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Chears flak...
I have to use 409 because RH used it on the origional chassis....better than mild I guess....just...
Will try and find some rods..
Got the engine out of the chassis..just the rear end to come off so I can turn the chassis over to weld it..hohum..
Dunc
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907
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posted on 15/1/07 at 08:47 PM |
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Hi
409 is not really a stainless, it's mainly steel with 11% chrome.
It's prone to cracking if welded with 409 filler rods, come to think of it, it's prone to cracking full stop.
It should be welded with a high chrome, high nickel, stabilized rod, to prevent the formation of chrome carbide, a brittle substance.
Suggested rods are 309, 310, or 312
If someone could do a link to this chart, (pooter numpty) you will see that all the 400 series steels are welded with one of the above.
http://www.brazing.com/products/Weld_Stainless/selection_chart.asp
I try to keep out of the weld "what with what" debates but this one could have consequences.
Hth
Paul G
Bu**er me I think the link works
[Edited on 15/1/07 by 907]
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tegwin
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posted on 15/1/07 at 08:49 PM |
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Chears for that link...I was suspecting that it would be some kind of shite stainless that will crack if poked with anything....
I will check with my welding supplier before I order anything...
How far does a normal rod go? (trying to work out how many to buy etc?)
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907
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posted on 15/1/07 at 09:01 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by tegwin
Chears for that link...I was suspecting that it would be some kind of shite stainless that will crack if poked with anything....
I will check with my welding supplier before I order anything...
How far does a normal rod go? (trying to work out how many to buy etc?)
They are sold by weight, 5Kg pack etc.
Just buy the smallest pack. You can always get more if you run out.
Or sell whats left. They are handy rods to have as they also weld mild steel to stainless.
Paul G
[Edited on 15/1/07 by 907]
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NS Dev
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posted on 16/1/07 at 08:07 AM |
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Yea, get 312 rods and I'll buy some of them off you!!
I have loads of dissimilar (and frankly rather nasty) welding jobs to do on the transmission parts for the new grasser!
they seem to be £80 for 5 kg wherever I look
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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