Thinking about it
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 06:13 PM |
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Hammerite smooth
I have painted a few components and not best pleased with the results. I used hammerite smooth satin black. Iknow all types of hammerite is funny
stuff and conditions need to be right for perfect results. I put one coat on and overcoated in the required time 4-8 hours. The problem is I have
ended up with a wrinkle finish. Perfect for an early MG dash. I think it may be that it was alittle cold when I applied the second coat alowing the
solvent to cut into the first coat for too long.
Any ideas?
I see on the can you can spray the hammer finish but nothing is mentioned on the tins about the smooth.
Has anyone sprayed it?
I know when Hammerite dries it leaves a silicone on the surface hence the problem with over painting. I have an old spraygun I could use to prevent
fish eyes in the paint if I use it for other paint afterwards.
Ideas appreciated.
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 06:27 PM |
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Personally I would not use Hammerite at all as i have found it too brittle.
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joolsmi16
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 06:27 PM |
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hammerite
If your brushing it on and it dries with a wrinkle effect your coats are to thick I have sprayed hammerite a good few times you need to thin it with
cellulose thinners and apply coats at 15 min intervals for excellent results.
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bonzoronnie
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 posted on 14/1/08 at 06:30 PM |
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Hammerite
Hammerite is a funny ole paint.
I have sprayed the smooth silver before with good results.
You need to use the correct thinners though. I think they say about 10%. I have found about 20% nearer the mark. ( at least on the guns I have ) 
Dampness & cold are a pain in the ass this time of year.
No need to waste expensive Hammerite thinners cleaning your gun, standard cellulose gun wash will do the job.
As for your original problem. Probably too long between coats in relation to conditions. 
Ronnie 
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SeaBass
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 06:37 PM |
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I've recently being trying to use some Hammerite smooth silver (brushed on from a tin). I'd like to think my painting technique is pretty
good. I could not get a decent finish on the parts and it took three days to dry. I won't be purchasing another tin.
[Edited on 14/1/08 by SeaBass]
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trextr7monkey
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 06:57 PM |
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Well contrary to the rest of the world we have been getting a lovely finish - clean surface witha wipe ofthinners ,get 2 coats on , bake inthe oven
for half an hour at about 60 degrees.
Smells great too
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
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timcullen
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 07:07 PM |
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I have used the smooth finish from a can, the end result was far from smooth. Bought an aerosol can of the stuff and the finish looked like it could
have come from a spray shop, it looked great! Although I think this paint is very temperature sensistive?
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Gav
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 07:07 PM |
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i painted my sierra uprights with hammerite smooth, after about 3 months its just started flaking off.
Try to find some Rust Oleum its is far far better, ive done my entire chassis with it and it does take some knocks.
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 08:54 PM |
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I find that if you apply one coat of hammerite by brush, then a light coat of the same colour hammerite by spray (aerosol in my case) gives good
powder coat type results.
and.. a quick going over with the heat gun the following day speeds up the drying process.
[Edited on 14/1/08 by givemethebighammer]
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 09:55 PM |
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I have used smooth Hammerite for years, with excellent results.
Make sure the item is clean.
Warm with a hot air gun or oven prior to spraying. This makes the paint dry from the inside out.
Spray evenly with a good coat.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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thunderace
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 10:02 PM |
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i have painted with Hammerite for 20 years 50-50 with petrol to get the best finish when spraying works great.
even done 70 %petrol before and it worked great.
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trextr7monkey
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| posted on 14/1/08 at 10:30 PM |
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We have used the Rust oleum stuff recently and found it to be very good, theymake an adhesion primer so it sticks well to fibre glass as well as
metal
Also the Ronseal metal paint (which they seem to have discontinued) - flowed really well and didn't have the "vapours" of the
hammerite collection.
Attraction of hamerite stuff at themoment is a local DIY store (Focus ) has been dropped by parent company Wickes and the massive tins which are
usually at the top end of £30 are about £24!
Come to Carlisle people!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
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caber
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| posted on 15/1/08 at 12:01 AM |
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I find smooth hammerite sticks much better if you prime with hammerite red oxide primer first. I did my engine this way and it is fine and chip free.
My chassis on the other hand was sprayed with smooth silver no primer , though it was all very carefully cleaned with gunwash dried and sprayed in a
heated garage it chips real easy.
Caber
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