John Bonnett
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 02:27 PM |
|
|
Making a Ventilation Grille Using a Hammerform
In order to combat very high under-bonnet temperatures, I have been making some air scoops and ventilation grilles to fit to the bonnet of the
Phoenix.
For the grilles, I have used hammerforms. Providing the pattern is right, you cannot go wrong with this technique and best of all, no special tools
are needed. I've posted some pictures of the sequence of operations in my photo archive in case anyone is interested.
John
|
|
|
worX
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 02:30 PM |
|
|
Looks really good and a nice simple, but well carried out example!
Steve
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 02:37 PM |
|
|
very nice
I use to make landy repair panels with the same method, good fun really
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
Bluemoon
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 02:43 PM |
|
|
Did you need to anneal the ali? What thickness was the sheet?
Cheers
Dan
|
|
triumphdave
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 04:05 PM |
|
|
There is some pretty impressive stuff going on in your archive
If you always do what you have always done you will always get what you have always got
|
|
John Bonnett
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 05:36 PM |
|
|
Thank you all for your kind words. I'm only on the bottom rung of the metal shaping ladder but it really is very satisfying and as has been
said, great fun.
Dan, yes I did anneal the aluminium first. It is 1050A pure aluminium, 1.5mm thick which is close to 16 gauge I think.
When trimming the aluminium, I allowed enough for it to bend again when it touched the table and this forms a tab allowing the mesh to be crimped in
place. To form the mesh, I cut out a pattern in plywood that would just drop through the aperture. Made an identical one, sandwiched the mesh cut 15mm
larger all round between the two, firmly clamped in place and then formed projecting mesh tight against the side of the pattern. Just push it into
position and crimp it up. It really is that simple, if it wasn't I couldn't have done it!
John
|
|
David Jenkins
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 07:28 PM |
|
|
It does look very smart - but would the SVA inspector approve? It does have the properties of a cheese-grater after all!
|
|
John Bonnett
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 08:32 PM |
|
|
quote: It does look very smart - but would the SVA inspector approve? It does have the properties of a cheese-grater after all!
Well, I can't say but he did pass the radiator outlet.
John
|
|
David Jenkins
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 08:58 PM |
|
|
Sorry John - I should have put a smiley on my earlier post, as it was meant to be tongue-in-cheek!
But I do wonder if a raised mesh thing would attract their attention...
[Edited on 19/3/08 by David Jenkins]
|
|
iank
|
posted on 19/3/08 at 10:30 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by David Jenkins
It does look very smart - but would the SVA inspector approve? It does have the properties of a cheese-grater after all!
Looks like it would be fine to me, and verily spake the manual
quote:
Chapter 13 Exterior projections
ii. grills/gaps (eg air intakes or outlets
including that part of a grill that projects
over the surface of the body and the cooling
fins of air cooled engines) having gaps of
more than 25mm but not more than
40mm have edges with a radius of
curvature of not less than 1mm on any
external surface
more than 10mm but not more than
25mm have edges with a radius of
curvature of not less than 0.5mm on any
external surface
not more than 10mm have edges that are
blunted
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
Bluemoon
|
posted on 20/3/08 at 08:50 AM |
|
|
Thanks John, looks like I will need to get some 1050 next time, the stuff I have seems to work harden to quickly..
Cheers
Dan
|
|
vinnievector
|
posted on 21/3/08 at 10:17 AM |
|
|
Quick one
Well done mate looks nice ,Just a quick one ,about annealing tempering this should be done after all your shaping and not before unless you have
bought a high temper alu T3 and beyond and need to soften back up. hope this helps .
Vinnie .
|
|